Question about Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range

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Oven does not ignite

Installed new - 18 months ago. All burners work great, so does the broiler. Oven igniter glows red, but no gas is released for ignition. Had a GE tech come out a couple of months ago, ran tests, said amperage availability was fine. Went on to conclude the combo regulator unit needed to be replaced and estimated repair costs to be almost as much as buying a new stove. Paid him a whopping service visit fee for his expert advice and ordered the part myself. Installed it...problem still exists. Any ideas????

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  • Lobote Nov 06, 2007

    My oven was leaking gas, so to find the leak I squirted water-soap solution on the gas lines. I found the leak, tightened the part, which solved the gas leak. However, now the oven and grill won't ignite. (Top elements work fine.) The igniter heats up and glows red-hot, but the gas won't flow out over it. Initially I hoped that I had just shorted the electrical with the water-soap solution but letting it dry out for 2 days did not solve problem. During repair above, I had to tip the stove onto its side, but no obvious damage was caused.



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There was simply a shut off value. I flipped it open, and then it worked fine!!

Posted on Nov 23, 2007

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It sounds like your saftey valve is out.It is the valve where the flame bar sits in.Try that.

Posted on Nov 22, 2007

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That red tag is a shut off valve for the regulator. what you need to do is to try to get the red tag back on if it is not broke, look at the red tag because it snaps back on the regulator which has a hook for the red tag to fit in once it is in the red tag flips up in the on position and that opens the regulator  to release the gas if it is in the down position once you have it one it will shut the gas flow off so make sure it is in the up position. If it is broke you have to replace the regulator.

Posted on Oct 20, 2007

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Maytag oven will not heat, no gas flow. Broiler works, clock and timer works.


You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

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Oven does not light. Top ignitor glows red bottom

Since BOTH oven manifolds and surface burners are usually fed from the same source, this is probably the result of failed igniter(s) in the oven. This is assuming that your surface burners are working, or course. If you are trying to light the BAKE manifold, the broiler manifold is used on some model to speed up the pre-heat process. So, you may see the broiler attempt to light as well. If you have tried using only the broiler by itself and it still does not light, you may have a weak igniter on that manifold as well. Double check your symptoms.

If this is a GAS range, as these igniters age from repeated use, they can become weak and longer function. If you are experiencing ignition problems, the following link explains a little theory about how these igniters work and how to replace one:

The burner manifolds in the oven each use a glow bar or electrode type igniter with a gas safety valve to ignite. Both oven manifolds are controlled by the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board, which is your clock/timer on the control panel. If the surface burners work, but the oven does not, the problem is usually not a gas related issue. It can be a control board issue, but is usually a weak or failed oven igniter.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also offer helpful exploded view diagrams to help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.

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Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broil igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

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I had the same problem and swapped the oven igniter with the broiler igniter and the oven now works. This proved the oven igniter itself was the fault, now I have to replace the broiler igniter with a new one(which is much easier to get to).

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Your igitor mat be glowing but it is not generating the proper amps to ignite the gas. The proper solution is to replace the oven igniter

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Each burner manifold in the oven has its own igniter. If the igniter is defective, the burner assembly will not light. The igniter has to be functioning properly in order for the gas safety valve to open. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from entering the oven cavity without ignition. This reduces the risk of explosions.

There should be a flame spreader metal plate covering the access over the broiler. You will need to access the broiler so you can view the broiler manifold and igniter. Turn the oven setting to broil and make sure the igniter begins to glow. If the igniter fails to glow, replace it. If the igniter does glow, but you still do not have ignition after 90 seconds, the igniter may be weak and still require replacement. The following link explains oven igniter types, their current potential, and how to replace them:

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you.

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