How to fix arm band - Cosmic Pet Hasbro Cosmic Catch Game

Tutorial How to Adjust Mesh Milanese Watch Band

I think it's 1/2 or 1 HP. I'm not 100% sure. I suggest you email Sears.

Is the cam (815671) in place? Is it worn out? Check it.

There are many reasons for the saw to run slow. First blow out all the saw dust with a compressor

You need to dis-assemble the top arm, then add the new bands and re-assemble

You will need to remove the band that wraps around the brake drum. If you cannot get the cover to come off, you will have to remove the band activation arm to slide the cover off. This will require a lot of penetrating oil. Most likely the band shaft has rusted tight into the transmission frame. You may need to remove the operator platform to access from the inside.

If you are looking to purchase a new watch, you have likely seen that there is a measurement for the watch case. This does not mean the box which contains the watch. The watch case is the space between the two arms that extend above and below the watch where the band attaches. The end of the band will fit in between the watch case. You will need to know this measurement both in purchasing a new watch and in looking for a replacement band. Often, watch makers give this number in millimeters, and for that reason, you will need to use a metric ruler to make the measurement.
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1. Find the watch case. It is the space where the end of the band attaches to the watch face. Refer to the image for a picture of the location of the watch case.
   
2. Using the metric ruler, measure the distance from the inside of one of the arms to the inside of the other arm. Watch makers use the inside measurement when creating their watches, not the distance from the outer edges of the arms.
   
3. Write down the measurement on the piece of paper. Measure the other watch case, but they should both be the same measurement.

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This is not a solution but it is information. I just got one of these turntables and the platter rotates but the tonearm does not move. I took it apart after downloading the service manual and found that there are two small thin rubber belts that due to age have fallen apart and "melt" when you try to pick up the pieces. One controlled the sideways movement of the tonearm "carriage", the other controlled the lifting and lowering of the tonearm. The replacements are expensive (I think around $18 each) and in trying to pop loose a worm gear with a pulley buit into it, so that I could try a cheap rubber band out just to see if the unit would work with new bands, I broke the stiff plastic "retainer" that by its shape was designed to be pushed out of the way a bit to allow the worm gear to be removed. The service manual, by the way, had all sorts of information about how to make fine adjustments, but said nothing at all about how to replace the belts. Unless removed there was no way to put the replacement band in place over the gear/pulley combination because there was no exposed end to slip a complete band over. So I think it was a bad design, made worse by the aging of the components that made the bands melt and the plastic "keeper" brittle so that instead of flexing out the way it broke. So I'm going to recycle the components. I did not find any reviews to tell me how good a component unit this was, so before you hire a pro to try to fix this unit you need to figure out if it will be worth it to you in the long run. Anyway, good luck.

It's a bit after Jim's post, however I had what appears to have been the same problem with my LX770 after it had been stored in the loft for quite a few years. I found the problem to be caused by the tone arm mechanisms stalling - The band that was associated with lifting the arm had turned to a black gunge and was not allowing the motor to rotate, also the motor associated with moving the arm backwards and forwards was struggling to turn. I cleaned the tone lifting pulleys and replaced with a small elastic band (for a temporary fix). This was a little fiddly as you have to take off a spring and a couple of gears to get the new band in place. I cleaned the runners and cleaned off the grease on the worm gears associated with the arm tracking (as I suspected it may be more viscus than originally installed), lightly oiled the tone arm tracking gears. It still seamed to take an amount of helping the tracking arm gears until they were able to move freely. With the tone arm mechanisms working properly the whole unit now seams to be working.
Top tips if you attempt this: WARNING - If the unit is plugged in, the transformer and high voltage wires are live regardless of whether the on button is on or off on the front of the record deck. PLEASE do not take any of my comments as recommendation you should ever do anything with the unit plugged in! Remove the little stylus carrier before you start taking the player to pieces - saves damaging it! Remove the record mat and aluminium platter before turning the unit upside down. Manually push the tone arm to about 0.5cm from its furthest travel - so you can remove the tone arm mechanism plate. May be a little stiff as the wires have to slide of the pulleys for the tone arm to be pushed. To access the tone arm mechanisms, remove the main bottom plate (and greasy spring), then undo the screws which hold on the rear undertray. With the decks buttons toward you, you should then be able to lift the rear tray slightly and tilt the tray towards you to expose the tone arm mechanisms. You shouldn't need to remove the circuit board with the control buttons on the front of the unit.
After getting it going, I found that I needed a Phono preamp to get the signal strength necessary to use the deck for transferring vinyl to my PC.
Good luck

I purchased a Casio Pathfinder solar/atomic watch, with compass, altimeter, barometer, thermometer, model 1200T-7WC (titanium).
Has the titanium band - on this particular band each link is somewhat waveshaped {i.e., there are 2 "arms" from the link making contact with the middle part of the link above (above meaning towards the watch body), and 1 arm fitting between the 2 arms of the next link down). Unlike described in the first solution, the pin is not split, but solid (doesn't look like a slotted screw on 1 end, so the solution at http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Casio-S-935L-Watch-Band is no help). Here's what to do if you have this band:

1. Note: before you start, be advised there is a tiny loose 1/8" part (sleeve) that will fall out as you pull the links apart, so work over an appropriate surface to "catch" it. Push pin (from the upper "arrow end) of one of the removeable links (those with the arrows on the backside) out of its hole with a fine poker (I used a 1/32" jeweler's screwdriver, an unbent paperclip would also work, just more likely to bend as you push pin out). This takes some force to do - in my case, after pushing, the pin projected out about 1/2 of it's length, I used needle-nosed pliers to gently pull it out the rest of the way). CAREFUL - once pin is removed and you pull the link away from the one above, a small (1/8") constriction sleeve should fall out of the center arm of the link above. SAVE THIS SLEEVE!

2. Using the same procedure, remove the pin from the bottom end of the link you're removing. again, SAVE THE SLEEVE.

3. to rejoin the band once the link is removed, look at the single/middle "arm" of the upper link, looking for the hole where the pin goes through. One side of the hole should be noticeably larger/wider than the other side - this is where you will place the SLEEVE - I used tweezers, or needle-nosed pliers will work - it will drop into hole. Keep this upright so that sleeve doesn't fall out, and slide the 2 arms of the lower link in place around the center arm.

4. Slide the pin you removed into one of the outer link arm holes - I found it easier if I started from below, pushing it into the center arm - it will stop when it reaches that 1/8" constriction sleeve. I set the extruded end on the pin on a magazine (i.e., slightly padded surface) and then pushed the top side of the band down, forcing the pin through the constriction sleeve and up into the upper arm hole, and Voila, your band is reconnected. The sleeve is important (without the sleeve in place, the pin will simply fall back out).