Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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I have a kenmore 700 series top-loader washing machine. Its about 8 years old but looks pretty new. My knob turns fine but the housing enclosure for the number does not turn with the knob. I have to manually turn it separately. Could this be my problem? When I put the timer on Regular wash and pull the knob the tub fills with water fine. But once its stops fill its supposed to start agitating and instead is starts making a soft humming noise. If I leave it alone it will eventually stop and leave a slight burning smell (like burnt plastic). If I turn the knob to spin it will spin like its supposed to and drain. I thought it could be my lid switch so I tried by-passing the switch with no luck. What could my problem be?

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  • Joseph Kaczor Mar 07, 2014

    Your motor coupling is probably broken! It should not agitate or spin and only drain.

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  • 71 Answers

The burnt plastic smell is probably the belt that drives the agitator. There may be something stuck (wrapped) around the shaft under the agitator that tightens the gears so the belt just slips and heats up. Remove the agitator and make sure the shaft is clear. also if it is belt and gear driven, check the gears. This means removing a panel or turning the unit sideways to inspect from below. The hum is the motor either not turning or turning with the belt too tight.
Hope this helps...

Posted on Oct 31, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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appldoctom
  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: Washer doesn't spin or drain unless I open the lid.

hay this is a tougher one .i tried to find a wiring diagram but couldn't.so ill tellyou what im thinking.when it stops and you lift the lid and it gets going is the clue,we know motor ok it will spin .we know lid switch ok you replaced.sooooooooo take a look at your diagram and see what componets come into play by way of the lid swtch opening then closeing.some how power is diverting may be to timer..........wow you gave a pretty good report on whats going on.so im reading and the running it in my mind.you say it will agaitate until in off position.so im thinking how can that happen.there has tobe a contact point stuck.when unit gets to end of washs cycle it should pause and wait to empty then refill or spin if after rinse .the presure switch tells the timer that has been done,but if presure switch bad washer may over flow or not fill so it seams fine.thinking.......you could use the process of elimanation but that could be expensive.thinking.........could the presure switch hose be blocked ,fooling the system? clean blow out.there can be no water in it before the tub fills..........you can blow thru tube while attached to presure switch and with ohm meter make sure its switches are working........but check all you can to elimanate the eazy stuff and go from their.i hope ive been some help.you can email if any questions .God bless ,tom

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

lojacksdad
  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore washing machine fills with water then stops

turn the motor to see if it moves it sound like the motor

Posted on May 02, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: model 22748 kenmore 70 series washer. fills but

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.92274800&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

It is also likely the source of the burning smell.

(Sears price $18.86 but available from most appliance repair shops)

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


Posted on Apr 22, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series stopped after wash cycle

It appears your timer/controller has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore washing machine mod.# 110.24642300 will

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11024642300/0582/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=11024642300

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two initial possibilities, neither is hard to fix or expensive.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

I'd also check the Motor coupler:

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Posted on Jan 11, 2011

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