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Indesit H561IX Cooker hood stopped working

Not working after 'bang' sound from underneath the area of the switches when switched on. Have changed fuse (just in case) but still not working. Now at the limit of my electrical knowledge.

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SOURCE: Cooker hood H561IX Not working after 'bang' sound

If you have changed the fuse it sounds like a loose wire in the switch or the main fuse in the fuse board has blown.

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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Debeta60 delonghi lights blew. I replaced both bulbs and they still don't work. How can I fix this?

Sounds like your ground is probably caked in grease.. Kill the breaker and trace the wires back until you find the one that's screwed into some metal. Take it off, clean it and try again

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Westinghouse range hood wrf900cs light blew, light globes replaced but lights still not working

I had the same problem. An audible pop and the lights stopped. Fans still works, light bulb filaments appear intact.
My problem was that a short piece of the copper on the printed circuit board, inside the switch housing, had vaporized as if it were a fuse. I soldered a bridge of copper wire across the small 5mm gap and all was working again.
Access the switch compartment by removing the filters, undo a couple of retaining screws to remove switch unit.
Make sure the electricity to the unit is Off/unplugged before proceeding!!!
Switch unit cover has 4 screws holding it on. Once inside the unit, trace the wire (mine was grey colour) from the light switch to the small printed circuit board. The copper printed circuit link to the connector had sign of burning, just gooone!
Solder a bridge of copper wire across the gap and reassemble switch unit to test.
....send beer donations to me in qld...cheers!!!

Jun 29, 2012 | Range Hoods

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Last night both fan and lights worked on my hood fan and lights. This morning neither are working. Checked house fuse box - everything ok there. what could be the problem does the allure have a fuse inside...

could be simething as simple as a disconnected wire, prior to calling for help, check these items if you feel okay with that , first turn off the circuit breaker and where the house wires come into the unit,, remove the wire nuts and check for burned areas,, if thats ok, reattach them and move to the switch or switches, unhook the wires, ( make note where each one goes ) and check them with a meter , this is probably where your problem will be,

Jul 10, 2011 | Broan-NuTone Allure QS130SS Kitchen Hood

1 Answer

My rangemaster cooker hoos has just stopped working.. no fan working and no light coming on ??

The same happened to me. I found a 3-amp fuse which I changed, and now it's ok.
I removed the chimney casing and located the electrical connection into the wall. You'll find a fuse unit within the switch which swings out.

Hope this helps.

Dec 20, 2010 | Rangemaster Kitchen Hood

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A bulb blew in my tecnik cooker hood and neither the lights of the fan will work? is there a fuse somewhere that I need to change?

In case you are still looking for an answer. The same happened to me.
I found a 3-amp fuse which I changed, and now it's ok.
I removed the chimney casing and located the electrical connection into the wall. You'll find a fuse unit within the switch which swings out.

Hope this helps.

Dec 08, 2010 | Rangemaster Kitchen Hood

1 Answer

Hi, model Beta 900 Inox. There was a bang and now

it sounds like there is a short in one of the wires going to the fan be carefull not to dig into with power on (breaker) a wire may have come loose and shorted to the housing. look for a black soot mark and fused metal.

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Changing fuse on Nutone Allure Ws2

Hi Mertl, I sure hope you found the solution since, but I am posting the answer for other people like me (and you) who need to find it !

The service manual says:

To replace the fuse:
1. Disconnect power at service entrance.
2. Remove filters, bottom panel, light wire harness, and air chute.

The fuse is actually right behind the fan controls, so to access it you need to disassemble everything that's in the way.

BTW, for anyone wondering if it's the fuse that's faulty, here's a clue:

If the fuse has opened (blown), the green fan-level indicators
will operate properly when the fan buttons/switches are pressed
- but the fan and lights will not turn on.

The fuse is a 5 x 20 mm, 10 Amp, Fast-Acting, 125V (min.).

Good luck all !

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Viking downdraft ventilator electrical problem.


I just took mine a part due to the same problem. I am an EE, so I have some experience in this matter. The problem was indeed the membrane ON/OFF switch. This switch is basically just stuck on the panel like a sticker. You can literally just pull it off and stick it back on. Underneath it is 3 metal "buttons". When you press it, one of these buttons presses on a flex circuit to complete continuity. This send AC line current down to the lift motor under the gear box cover. The lift motor starts moving. After it starts, a cam hits a relay switch, which completes the circuit thru the relay. This is what keeps the vent moving up after you let go of the On/Off Switch.

At first, I through I could just clean the switch up. I figured crud got down in there. But it did not work. I looked at the switch under a microscope, and the problem is the flex circuit was actually burned thru. This is usually caused by a weak spot in the flex combined with too much current. My best guess is this switch is undersized for this application. The switch will also allow current to flow even when the relay takes over, based on how it is wired. I'm not sure I like this, as if one tends to hold the button is all the way up or down, then that just more current thru the switch for a longer time which means more heat and better change of burning thru. Of course if the switch was better quality or design, it wouldn't matter in he first place.

Anyway, I'm going to take the switch to my lab and try and put a jumper wire across the burned area. This probably will not work or it will just burn in another place in the future. So I'll probably have to get another switch. The problem will be finding a good looking one. All one needs is a Single Pole Momentarily ON switch for the application. From it, run the 2 wires the control board connector (polarity does not matter). It is all pretty apparent once you take the top cover of the vent off (4 screws, 2 each side). The cable that runs from the control pad to the unit below uses a S-Video type connector and is keyed, so you can't get it back on incorrectly. Total cost in parts will be very minimal

For you DIY, remember there is AC voltage levels running thru this switch. Make sure YOU TURN POWER OFF when working on it and know what you are doing. You can get shocked.


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