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Jessica Lopez Posted on Oct 29, 2013
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Alternator ford bronco

Hello, My name is Jessica. I have a 90 bronco 5.8 I just bought it and I noticed there was kind of a squeaky noise coming from the engine so I sprayed the tensioner pulley with silicone spray and sometimes the squeak would go away but after a short time it would come right back so I figured the tensioner pulley needed to be replaced after replacing it the noise was still there so I looked at the smog pump decided to replace that and after that was replaced every time I would start the car and put in into reverse it died and the squeak is still there louder then before although the tensioner pulley should squeak for the first 500 miles so I am not sure if that is the tensioner or if the problem is still there. Help!

1 Answer

Brett Cirbo

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  • Expert 101 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 29, 2013
Brett Cirbo
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Joined: Jun 20, 2013
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The best way to identify exactly which accessory or component is making noise is to use a mechanics stethescope with a pointed tip on it. If you do not have access to one, the next best thing is to remove the serpentine belt and feel each individual pulley for binding or play. Also try to spin each pulley fast enough to create the noise.

4 Related Answers

freetek

Steve Allison

  • 5569 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2008

SOURCE: squeak in front of engine 2002 taurus

I assume that the noise changes with engine RPMs, not vehicle speed since you mention washing down the engine - something pretty hard to do if the car is going down the road-
Is it possible that what you describe as a squeak is instead a whistle? The symptoms you mention related to water could mean that an intake manifold gasket (or another part of the intake system) has a bad gasket and is causing a whistling noise from air being pulled in where it shouldn't happen. If the failed gasket is allowing water into the intake system, that would explain why the engine sounds like it wants to die. 
You might take a 2-foot length of vacuum hose or similar, hold one end to your ear and move the other end around the engine to see if you can more accurately isolate the source of the noise, be it squeak or whistle.    Obviously, don't hold the hose too tight in case you get tangled up with a belt or rotating part.
Good luck-

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2009

SOURCE: noisy water pump pulley,alternator pulley..timing belt tensioner

I have a 1995 xj6....same problem. I replaced the belts, water pump, and the alternator. Still does it. As I play with the tension on the belt (belt that drives water pump, alternator) it goes away and comes back. If I remove the belt, the metal to metal screech stops. I then, with just the belt, turned the main pulley on the front of the engine, and there was the sound! The main pulley has 2 belts that run on it. Also, 2 pulley tracks. They SHOULD move simultaneously and be super meshed. But the rear one moves on its own under tension until it warms up and I guess, the bushing maybe expands. Now.....how do I fix it??????

Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 09, 2011

SOURCE: 2006 ford tauras i replaced

First, if you have sprayed WD-40 on your belt, your belt has been wrecked and needs to be replaced again. WD-40 will only soak into the belt and CAUSE it to slip and make noise.

Then you need to check the alignment of all the belt pullies. The tensioner pullies on many Fords can wear and sit a little out of alignment and cause the belt to rub sideways against the other pullies. Replacing the belt tensioner usually fixes it.

smittysjeep

  • 76 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 29, 2012

SOURCE: 2002 Chevy Silverado squeaking from engine when motor is cold just started this

it is your belt it needs to be replace you can buy belt dressing spray to use but if you have lot of miles I would replace the belt good luck..

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Hello, My name is Jessica. I have a 90 bronco 5.8

I had the exact same problem with my 1999 Chevy Cavalier . I finally took the mounting bracket for the tensioner pulley off . I found that the "boss" , that is a raised portion on the bracket that the bolt "axel" for the tensioner threads into was cracked allowing the tensioner to lean outwards on an angle . This then would not produce enough tension to properly tighten the belt .It is , I know, quite exasperating but you cannot see or even feel this crack without removing this bracket . You may also have to remove some accessories that are mounted through this bracket . It took me about 1 1/2 hrs. to complete this project .GOOD LUCK !!
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