Power locks wont lock doors with switch
All doors? Check the fuse...see owner's manual for info. Also verify that it is the vehicle's lock switches...or the keyless entry fob. If it is a single door, this can be a tricky difficult ordeal to find the "source" of the problem.
The difficulty is due to the fact that the negative/positive wires reverse polarity at door lock relays each time the lock is electrically exercised. The locks are activated by an electromagnet solenoid, which reverse when the supply current reverses polarity. For example, you may be able to lock a door with the switch then not be able to unlock it...or vice versa. If one of the wires has a fault, and the door locked [or unlocked], the relay was also "tripped/switched" with the "good" wire. When that happened, the relay effectively reversed the wire polarities...meaning that the faulty wire cannot energize the relay/solenoid to activate the lock-unlocking mechanism to reverse the process..
Simply, put...this is not likely a do-it-yourself fix, unless you have fair DC electrical skills, and a shop manual with complete wiring diagrams. The problem could be a poor wire connection, a broken wire, a faulty relay, a faulty solenoid, or a combination of these...or even a physical fault in the mechanical linkage for the lock.
If your vehicle has a locking lifting hatch back...and this is the "door" that won't operate, this can be very aggravating as there is no manual override, without removing the door/hatch trim and manually moving the linkage.
Hopefully it is the fuse.....good luck.
This solved the problem but does not answer the question. In able to get the back of the oven, you must remove the rails covering the mounting screws. To remove the rails the door should be open to get to the screws securing the rails. I took a small nail and used the head of the nail to back out the screws with the door closed and locked. After the rail screws were removed the mounting screws were removed and the unit slid out.
While replacing the thermal fuse, the thermal couple connector was twisted and one of the contact became disengaged. re-inserting the contact and restoring power dis-engaged the lock. The oven is working as well as it did before the self cleaning cycle.
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