I'm having trouble wiring my Powermatic 63 10" for 220. I purchase and connected a 220 dryer cord to switch and have followed wiring instructions on motor - still no juice. Any ideas?

Hi nancy huerta...

You can change the cord or the receptical...
It will be easier to change the cord...
Purchase a four prong plug cord that will fit into your receptical, then wire your dryer for 4 wire instead of three wire use.
To see a picture and explanation of how to wire your dryer for a 4 wire plug go to the following webpage.
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http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Technical explanation: Older 240 Volt appliances use a three-wire power cord (Black, White, Red). The White wire is the "neutral" connection, which is tied to Ground at the service entrance panel. The Black and Red wires are opposite phases of the 240 VAC (when one goes positive, the other goes negative). The neutral wire is "in between", so measuring the voltage between the black or red wire and neutral would give you 120 VAC. The green wire is frame ground; the electrical code requires newer (since 2008) 240 VAC appliances to have a separate ground bonding connection to the frame; the neutral connection is not considered adequate protection for certain failure conditions.

Look for a screw head or terminal stud on the frame or sheet metal of the dryer labeled "Ground", "Earth", or one of the following ground symbols:


The green wire goes to this point. DO NOT connect the green wire to any of the wiring inside the dryer, unless it is a green wire attached to sheet metal or a bracket!

The black, white and red wires go to black, white and red terminals you already found.

Go to this website to see how to connect your dryer cord
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http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Hi, Check out this site, it has instructions and pictures!
http://electrical.about.com/od/appliances/ss/4wireto3wiredryercord_6.htm

The most common cause of an ELECTRIC dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse or bad power cord. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct (220-240VAC), check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same voltage reading. If good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad, you need to replace your power cord.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the two HOT leads are the LEFT and RIGHT wires. The center wire will be NEUTRAL or GROUND.

If the problem is internal, the thermal fuse will be mounted on the blower fan housing. It is a small plastic looking component (usually white in color) with two wires attached to it. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.

Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it must be replaced.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part number you may need are as follows:

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot most common electric dryer problems:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions about these repairs, or need instructions on how to access any of these components, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

This could definitely cause a dryer no heat problem and a potential house fire. Purchase a new dryer cord and replace it. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Follow the 3-prong wire color code provided. If the new dryer cord does not have any colors (all gray) simply make sure the center conductor gets connected to neutral (WHITE) at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. There should also be a grounding strap or ground wire (GREEN) attached to the neutral at the temrinal block. Each outer wire will then get connected to either of the two hot (RED and BLACK) terminals.

The reason your dryer still may tumble in spite of a bad dryer cord is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If one of the dryer cord conducters is burned in half, you may only be getting half your input voltage to the dryer. A voltage reading across the two hot terminals (left and right slots) at the wall receptacle should read 220-240VAC. You should also read this same voltage across the red and black wires at the terminal block. If not, you have a bad cord.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

red on one end, black on the other, white in the middle, green to cabinet ground.

First,follow manufacturers instructions if possible.

If you need a 4-wire cord you will attach the black wire to one of the gold or brass colored screws on the dryer hookup and the red wire to the other brass or gold screw. The white wire will connect to the silver screw and the green wire will connect to the green screw or to a screw that is connected to the frame of the dryer.

If you need a 3 wire cord you will place the two outside wires (if looking at the cord if laying flat), one on each brass or gold screw.Next there should be a metal strip or jumper that you will place to connect the green screw connected to the frame of the dryer and the silver or white screw together. Then place the white, or center wire, on the silver or white screw.

Instructions that came with the dryer should show you how to do this.

Make sure the cord is unplugged before unhooking the hold cord or installing the new one.

If you see something different that what i describe or need anything else just write.

What you should get is a new 4 wire cord. It is way less complicated than trying to change out the wall receptacle.
On a 4 wire dryer cord you have White(common) in the middle. Red and Black are hot and go on either side of white. If you really want to make it look good you can put red to red on the terminal and black to black but you don't have to. Some dryers may not have those color hot wires. Green hooks to the chassis with a green screw or any screw connected directly to the frame.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Your issue is as follows;
"iI HAVE A DRYER 4PRONG POWER CORD \. HOUSE OUTLET THREE PRONG NEDD TO CHANGE POWER CORD.DRYER INSTRUCTION CONNECT 4 TERMMINAL.WHAT HAPPEN WHEN CONNECT THREEN TERMINAL."

A 3 prong cord should be wired as follows:

1. 1 end of cord connects to 1 outside terminal.
2. The other end of the cord connects to the remaiing outside terminal.
3. The center wire connects to the center terminal.
4. A separate ground wire should be attached from the dryer chassis, then to a metal cold water line, or an exterior grounding rod.

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Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"