SOURCE: pb4 pushes air with litle water
the line in front of the pump which is your suction side is sucking air this line need to be replaced you can just cut the pipe off un tread the male connector and put more teflon tape on it but it will be only a temporary fix is always better to replace the male tread connector
SOURCE: Just bought a new polaris booster pump (PB4-60)
Have you checked for voltage at the pump motor? Did you wire it correctly? Is the motor 110V or 220V. Did you match the motor to your existing voltage?
SOURCE: I have a Polaris PB4
The click is the internal thermal overload. Since the pump wouldn't start it overloaded and opened the circuit. Either there is something jammed in the impelller locking the pump up or you have a motor problem. IF it a capacitor start motor, you could have a bad capacitor. Or if it has a starting switch it may not be operating. Start off and be sure the motor turns freely. If you replace capacitor be sure it is same voltage and MFD as the old.Check all wiring connections.
SOURCE: I have a problem with my Polaris pump PB4-60. The
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As those pumps wear the impeller ends up rubbing against the flange gasket (if present - depends on the age of the pump) and will eventually cause enough damage that the pump will quit pumping. Open the pump up and replace the impeller, gasket or o-ring, and seal if they are at all worn and your unit will be good as new. You can find a parts print here. If you are not familiar with these repairs a local electric motor or pump repair shop should be able to do them for you for under $100 parts and labor.
John
SOURCE: I am replacing an old booster pump with a Polaris
It is impossible for us to know what voltage you are running as you did not list that information here.
Typically a green-red-blue comination of wiring suggests 240 VAC connections.
Also, every motor you buy is required to have a wiring diagram on the side of the motor. This should tell you where to connect the wires.
IF you are running 240 v as suspected, both the red and blue wires are "hot" wires on the load side of your timing box. Simply look at the side of the motor and follow the diagram on wiring the pump.
Typically most motors in the USA use a L1 and L2 terminal to connect the 2 "hot " wires.
This pump does come factory wired for 240 volts, so it probably is just 1 each of the "hot" lines to L1 and L2.
Before connecting, make sure you confirm your systems voltage with a multimeter.
Below is a link to the installation manual for this pump. But it does not list electrical diagram since its on the side of the motor.
http://www.clubp.info/pdf/TL/P-134.pdf
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