Amp.remote wire/the amp.only works when the power wire is connected to both remote and + terminal,but does not work without remote wire.Is there some lack of power from the remote wire.the amp works fine in my girlfriends car,and I have switched the reciever.All wiring is correct,and Im not a complete idiot. am I ? Dont answer that but please help with the other question (sorry for the confusion)I know its hard to picture.thanks
Does the new deck have a blue wire for remote and a blue/white wire also? The blue one is for a power antenna and shuts of when playing discs or axillary inputs. The blue/white is for power amplifiers and stays on when the deck is on. Also be sure the remote wire that goes to the amp is not pinched and grounded out to the frame of the car.
Let me know, and be sure to leave feedback or I don't get paid.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi there, try the following; disconnect your remote lead, connect the remote terminal to the positive terminal with a piece of wire. If the amp powers up then the remote output from your headunit is at fault. You can connect the remote lead to a switchable live at the headunit end to work around this problem. The amp will switch off when you switch the ignition off and vice versa. If that doesn't work then there may be a problem with your positive feed so check your fuse (there should be one near your battery where you see the amp cable connect) If that doesn't work, check how secure your earth lead is, kicker amps use a lot of power so these connections need to made to a clean metal surface. Scrape the paint away if you need to, make sure you have bare metal to connect to. Lastly, if you have only just installed the amp, check that you have thick enough power cable. As I said before, the amp will draw a lot of current, if the main power cable is too thin then you may not be getting enough current to power the amp. Hope this is helpful.
Run a power wire from the positive battery terminal to the red power wire on your amp.
Without extending the length of the ground wire if possible connect it to a clean ground connection as close to the amplifier as possible.
Wire your speakers to the proper terminals, make sure you do not exceed the capabilities of the amplifier i.e. impedance matching.
Connect the blue wire to the power ant or remote connection on the back of the radio usually a thin blue with white stripe or plain blue. screw amp to the car..enjoy
that is the way it works, I assume it is a car amplifier here,please accept my apology if I am wrong.Normally these amps are powered on by the radio/cd player.It has a wire which connects them together which wakes up this amp when radio/cd is powered on.Hope I have answered your question.
REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL DOES NOT POWER UP, VERIFY THAT THE POSITIVE AND ESPECIALLY THE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALONG WITH THE REMOTE CONNECTIONS ARE 100%, THEN TRY AGAIN. IF STILL NOT POWERED UP, MEASURE THE REMOTE WIRE VOLTAGE TO INSURE THAT IT IS NOT LOWER THAN 11 VOLTS. IF YOU CANNOT MEASURE IT, THEN DISCONNECT THE REMOTE LEAD FROM THE AMPLIFIER AND TEMPORARILY INSTALL A JUMPER WIRE FROM THE POSITIVE POWER TERMINAL TO THE AMPS REMOTE TERMINAL WHICH WILL FORCE IT TO TURN ON. IF IS STILL DOES NOT POWER UP, THEN IT WILL HAVE TO BE SERVICED. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
Power amps must be connected + battery wire to the amp +b terminal with a gauge 8 or bigger depending on the power rating, - ground to the car chassis as short as possible,connect cords from head unit to power amp with good groundings, and remember to connect the speakers and the remote trigger from head unit to turn the amp on.
Connect a DC voltmeter between the "remote" (+) terminal and the "ground" (-) terminal on the amp. When you turn on your Pioneer, you should read 12-14V. If you get voltage for a second and then it goes away, either the incorrect wire from the head unit is connected, or the head unit remote turn-on is defective. If the voltage remains on the terminal and the amp immediately turns back off, it's possible that the remote turn-on is not supplying adequate current for the amp. To determine if that is the case, run a separate wire from a positive (+) accessory terminal (cigarette lighter or fuse box) to the amp remote terminal. If the amp then turns on and stays on, you'll need to wire a relay into the turn-on wire. The wiring for such a relay is shown here. Most any 12V SPST or SPDT relay from an auto parts store or Radio Shack will work OK.
The remote turn on terminal on the amp needs to be connected to a switched power source. Typically, it's the remote turn-on/power antenna wire on the head unit. If your head unit doesn't have such a control wire, connect the remote turn-on terminal to a wire that's controlled by the ignition switch.
It's VERY important to fuse all of the wires properly. If you're unsure of the proper fuse for a given wire size, read pages 14 and 16 of the Basic Car Audio Electronics site.