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The pulley that the belt runs in may be loose-does it turn with the saft,or there may be a belt tensioner that is not tightening the belt-the tensioner is a pulley that has a spring connected to it-does the belt feel tight-cheers Denny
the pulley that the belt runs in may be loose-does it turn with the saft,or there may be a belt tensioner that is not tightening the belt-the tensioner is a pulley that has a spring connected to it-does the belt feel tight-cheers Dennythe pulley that the belt runs in may be loose-does it turn with the saft,or there may be a belt tensioner that is not tightening the belt-the tensioner is a pulley that has a spring connected to it-does the belt feel tight-cheers Denny
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If one of the augers in your Vollrath Granita VCBF168 3-head slush machine is not turning, but you can see that the auger drive is turning, there may be a few possible causes for this issue:
Auger blade or shaft issue: Check the auger blade and shaft for any damage or obstruction. Make sure the blade is properly attached to the shaft and rotates freely. If there is any damage or blockage, you may need to replace the auger blade or shaft.
Belt or pulley problem: The auger drive is typically connected to the auger itself via a belt and pulley system. Inspect the belt and pulleys to ensure they are intact and properly aligned. If the belt is worn or the pulleys are misaligned, it may prevent the auger from turning. Adjust or replace the belt or pulleys as needed.
Motor malfunction: The auger drive motor could be experiencing a malfunction. Check if the motor is running smoothly and listen for any unusual sounds. If the motor is not functioning properly, it may need to be repaired or replaced.
Electrical issue: Ensure that the electrical connections are secure and there are no loose or damaged wires. Check the motor's power supply and voltage to ensure it is receiving the correct amount of power. If there is an electrical problem, it may require professional repair or assistance.
Does the shaft turn that moves the belt? Remove the blade and belt and turn the mower "on" and take a look underneath. If the shaft doesn't turn then the reduction gear is broken. If it turns, try checking the belt for slick... if it's slick on the shaft side... turn the belt inside out and it should work for you.
Did you remove the spark plugs? If you're fighting the compression of the engine it'll be almost impossible to turn by hand. If what you're getting at is you think the engine is ceased, the temperature would probably have shot up while driving and the car would have become progressively more sluggish, requiring more and more accelerator pedal to maintain speed, until it died.
1. DC motor assembly. Make sure all the motor plate mounting screws are tight.
2. Idler pulley - DC motor assembly. Make sure the idler pulley is not binding on the pulley shaft. Check the pulley for wear. Check the idler pulley shaft on the motor mounting plate for damage or contamination.
3. Drive pulley. Check the drive pulley for wear, binds or damage to the pulley or pulley shaft. Make sure the pulley turns freely on the pulley shaft.
4. Motor drive belt - tray drive belt. Check the DC motor drive belt for damage. Make sure the belt is tracking correctly on the drive pulley, idler pulley, and motor pulley. Check the tray drive belt for damage. Make sure the belt is tracking correctly on
If the motor runs when you switch on, but the brush roll doesn't revolve, then there may be a broken belt. I wonder how old your vac is? Sebo belts are very high quality and they usually last 10 years at least.
Before you go to the trouble of checking the belts, check the brush roll and its drive shaft. Remove the brush roll and check for signs of damage at the end where it engages the drive shaft. Also see if you can easily rotate the drive shaft - if you can, there's a belt broken. To confirm, lie the machine down so you can see the drive shaft, then switch on (keep fingers clear!) and look to see if the shaft is rotating. If you can't turn the shaft by hand and it does rotate when you switch on, then the belts are OK but the brush roll may not be locating properly and you probably need a new one.
To check the belts you need to get the cover off the base, as follows: separate the base from the bag compartment by pressing the button at front bottom of bag compartment then just pull the two apart (a gentle lever may help). Then turn the base over and undo ONLY the four deeply recessed screws (you will need a cross-head screwdriver). Turn the base right-way up again and lift off the cover. You will then see the belts.
If you find the belts are both good, or if you find one broken and need further help, post a reply here, tell me what you've found, and I'll guide you through the next steps.
Good luck!
Take the bottom plate off to expose the motor, drive belt, and pulleys (pull the power plug for this). Remove the drive belt and turn the motor shaft by hand--does it seem to turn freely? Do the same with the driven pulley--it should turn freely also. The pulleys and belt are likely cog-type and not prone to slippage. If either pulley shaft is excessively hard to turn, then investigate the reason,and replace parts if necessary. With the belt off, the motor should accelerate almost instantly. If relatively slowly, the motor may need to be replaced.
Remve the safety cover as instructed below and turn the machine on to see if you have a belt anymore (they rot) and if the drive shaft is turning...
Hi, I have the same machine and the belt was in tiny rotten pieces...I wound a piece of yarn around the wheel and drive shaft (lie the machine on a kitchen counter, lid open and hanging down off of the counter, bottoms up, and remove the screws from the teardrop shaped brass colored safety cover, remove the cover and expose the wheel and drive shaft) pull the yarn tight and knot it. Then cut the yarn about an inch from the knot. Measure the yarn when pulled on a little. Mine measured 23.5"....I then googled bread machine belt 23.5" and up came one for an Oster Bread Machine (The one I was repairing was a Regal Kitchen Pro 6725) from totalvac.com located at 2 De Bush Ave Unit A8 Middleton, MA 01949 It was $7.95 for the belt, $6.95 S & H to a VA address, total cost $14.90 so I decided to give it a shot. When it got here, I removed the safety cover, held the machine up and shook as much of the old rotten rubber belt pieces out as I could, and replaced the belt by placing it over the sticky string on the drive shaft and teasing it over the wheel. It is an exact fit. Be sure the ribbed side of the belt is down against the wheel. Screw the cover back on and run it through a dough cycle so that the belt will get coated with the sticky stuff from the sticky string on the drive shaft. Until the belt is coated, it will turn the mixing blade, but it will slip. Hope this helps. Patti
Most likely the brush motor is bad and not turning, part #2036757, would sell for around $23. To get to it, start taking out screws on the top cover, that motor is under the that top access cover.
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