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Important---if you smell gas--I'd be very very careful---could be your control valve or lines to it are malfunctioning or leaking. You might have to call in an expert repair person. How old is the oven? Some preliminary checks you might make are: Do you have a pilot lite or preheaters on the unit? If a pilot lite, make sure it is lit. An unlit pilot lite could sometimes give the smell of gas if malfunctioning. If so, there is is a procedure for lighting the pilot lite--check your user or installation manual. If you have pre-heaters make sure they are lighting up. Normally you have one for the top broiler burner, and one for the bottom oven burner. Check your preheater(s) by selecting either broiler or oven and visually checking to see if they are warming up. After 15 seconds or so, they should be turning bright red. You will see some light coming from them. Check one pre-burner at a time. If they do not come on quickly, shut off the associated valve. Again, be very, very careful with any buildup of gas. It could cause an explosion. At the least it could make you sick.
Thank you for asking me directly to help you with your problem. However, either the question you are asking is not within my area of expertise (I am an automotive repair technician), or the question is incomplete and does not contain enough information for me to help you.
minimum repair is the clearance side wall of at least 110 mm. but never attempt to repair the appliances by your self. it has so many things which need skilled person but proper cleaning and lil bit maintenance for small damages is quite safe.
I was trying to help you out here. Maybe this will help some? I was going back to
some customers that asked questions in the recent past and even farther back. It appeared that no one answered some of them,
So, I thought I would take some of my personal time to see if I can help. Even
though this Informational site may not have your exact model or brand, this
site will help you a lot. Here is a site
link about everything you want to know
about ovens and possibly yours, fromrepairto
trouble shooting it. Now go easy on me, I am just trying to help. If it does great if not, I am sorry.
Hello cnt.... If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Hey - That part is available thru AppliancePartsPros online listing is clock/timer. Part # AP2125110 $203.75 These timers are old-timers anymore. Can be hard to find, and at 200 bucks, make ya think twice. Gas model is probably worth it though. Either way- it's an electronic clock that has had 120v running through it for 20 yrs or so. Time to replace for sure. Let me know if this info helps- have more if needed- Thanks--Ed
Giggles01: I wish I had an answer other than calling GE. We are about to install a used oven of the same model/same vintage. I've been unable to locate a manual and need some information from it. Would you be willing to tell me the cut-out size the manual calls for regarding the installation of the oven? Most 30" ovens require a 28.5" cut-out, and I need to confirm that for the JTP45. Thank you!
This is a solution - of sorts - but probably not the one that you were hoping for.
My Stoves 720EF oven developed the same fault.
I tried pressing the buttons in various combinations and I tried switching the power off and on, restting the timer and the clock, no joy.
I then tried getting hold of a copy of the manual and trying to fix it, no joy. Called up Stoves and booked a visit from a specialist service engineer, costing £75 +VAT for the call out, and was advised that the engineer would attempt to repair it but it might need a replacement circuit board, costing a further £110 plus VAT.
engineer arrived on the appointed day and was straight onto swapping out the circuit board - not much scope for "attempt to repair" - so that was about £190 plus VAT to fix it. job took about 25 mins and didnt seem to need anything beyond what any electrician (or electrically-expert DIYer) could do.
comes with a 12 month warranty - hopefully it will work without any issues !
If you have a regular electrician you might prefer to buy the board and get your electrician to do the job - or do it yourself, assuming that you are suitably skilled and qualified.