Question about Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Posted on Dec 02, 2007
believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd
Posted on Aug 10, 2008
Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
The closest model number reference I could find for what you have provided is "110.69522800". If this model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:
1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse
You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.
As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.
You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:
The components are listed as follows:
Heating Element (Item 14)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 1)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 34)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 40)
Thermal Fuse (Item 9)
If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:
The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:
1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad).
2. Bad Heating Element.
3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.
4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.
Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please post back with your correct MODEL NUMBER if the number I have provided is incorrect. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
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