Question about Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer

Open Question

Kenmore dryer model#11062622101 does not heat,, element checked out ok and thermostat by element checked ok, what does the top thermostat do?

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101

I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 02, 2007

Ad
  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat

believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 3741 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore electric dryer is not heating

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Posted on Jul 11, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore dryer model 96281100 runs but don't dry(no heat)

If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Posted on Feb 27, 2010

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: my kenmore series 500 dryer does not heat up

The closest model number reference I could find for what you have provided is "110.69522800". If this model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK0809032-00003.png


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 14)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 1)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 34)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 40)
Thermal Fuse (Item 9)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad).

2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please post back with your correct MODEL NUMBER if the number I have provided is incorrect. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have the Kenmore series 90, model 66901692 black face control panel if that is different and it runs but does not heat up.


Above the thermostat on the heating element box at the top is a resettable thermal fuse. It has a wire coming into it then another one comes out and goes to the thermostat. check that.

May 15, 2016 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Model 1.10 60902990 Dryer Problem


Try it with out connecting to your vent and see if it still trips,other wise your vent is still clogged. Also should be good air pushing out the disconnected vent, if not maybe blower wheel clogged.
Another thing is how hot is it getting.Maybe the operating thermostat is getting to hot and never stopping the heat when its supposed to.

Nov 07, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer will not start. It is Kenmore model# 110.62622101. There is power and the door clicks closed but it will not start.


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Try this first: Reach inside the drum and move the dryer drum by hand for about 1/2 revolution SLOWLY. Move the drum in a CLOCKWISE direction so you do not cause the ifler pulley to fly off. Then try a start.

If this does not makeit run then the next step is to make sure there is power at the push to start switch. Item 5 this link: (You accept responsibility for working on live circuits)
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-11062622101/0582/0151200/P0110200/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=11062622101

Then you check the thermal fuse item 1 this link:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-11062622101/0582/0151200/P0110200/00003

Most likely the thermal fuse has failed.... the reason these fail is due to poor air-flow. Clean everything... wash the lint filter with vinegar and water, then soap and water. Vacuum all the internal ducting and the lint filter cavity. Use a folded wire coat hanger if necessary to knock the lint free so you can vacuum it out. Go outside and check the thru the wall vent flapper for blockage. THEN replace the thermal fuse. Turn on the dryer and check air flow with the rear ducting disconnected. It should push a relaxed hand gently away from the duct connection. If you do not have this kind of air flow after an avid cleaning and lint removal session... there is most likely a problem with the blower wheel spinning on the motor shaft / broken fan hub. Blower wheel / fan is item 37 of this link:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-11062622101/0582/0151200/P0110200/00003

The other possibiliies are the motor switch and the timer. Most of the time the problem is the thermal fuse failure due to lint build up.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Jun 18, 2011 | Kenmore 72982 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer blows cold air. I replaced heat element still no luck? model 96263800


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Mar 25, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

No heat. The dryer functions on all cycles, just no heat. Model #11062622101


dryer is built by whirlpool, unplug ,remove back, check for resistance of element with an ohm meter. if reistance is infinite ,buy another element part #279838. if not check the thermostat above the element , should read 0 ohms

Jan 22, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Model 110.96585200 No heat!


You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .

Nov 11, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore series 70 dryer will not heat up replaced heating element thermostats check ok with ohm meter


If heating element was replaced and still no heat, Then what I would do is test the voltage current in the wiring and see if there is actually power to the element.

All parts to make dryer heat are:
heating element
thermal fuse
thermostat
timer

any one of these units can be faulty


Oct 10, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 Series Dryer Model# 110.64742400


check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.

Apr 06, 2009 | Kenmore 64742 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer won't heat


ok you moving in right direction but you jumped a step,,you already checked the thermal cut offf and the operating thermostat,,those where the two on the side of the heater housing,,you should have checked the thermal fuse and the thermistor,,they are on top of the blower wheel housing tuck a lttle to the left,,since you seem that you know what your doing just jump them out starting with the thermal fuse,,,keep me posted on the job

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Heavy Dut Model 86427810 runs but does not heat


You need to have a look at the thermal protection devices and the thermostat section and make sure they are functioning such that power is reaching the heating elements. If they are and there is still no heat, the elements are probably malfunctioning. If the dryer is producing ANY heat, then the thermostat and thermal circuit is OK, and all you need are elements.

Apr 15, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer Logo

Related Topics:

24 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Sal DeAngelo

Level 3 Expert

2333 Answers

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3074 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...