Question about Dryers
Dryer won't start, no error codes, appears to work on the control panel but no heat or spin. Checked thermistor and heat fuses and door switch and power voltage at the block and replaced the motor - still won't start.
That's why I hate "computerized" appliances-- cheap for them, and expensive for us. Almost sounds like a business plan!
Posted on Oct 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
did you forget to plug the door switch back in? or anything else? oh..it didn't start before...ok. you probably should have replaced the thermal fuse..it's white with 2 wires on it.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
If you checked all those other things you probably have a busted glowplug. Its similar to an igniter on a stove just a small element that gets super hot to ignite the gas. You'll need to replace it yourself or get a repairman to come do it. If you do decide to do it yourself make absolutely sure that you do not touch the element itself with your bare hands as the oil from your skin will cause the element to break when it heats up and you will be back to square one. The glow plug is usually located in the bottom left hand corner of the dryer and if you pull the front cover off the machine and remove the air duct in front of it you should see it pretty clearly. Obviously have the gas and electricity disconnected before you work on any gas machine.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks In checking this out I found That it was broken . I have replaced it but still dryer no heat Do u have something elese"
It sounds like you have been through most of the areas too look.
One thing to make sure of is that you have a full 240 volts. An electric dryer can measure 120 volts. from L1 to common and 120 volts from L2 to common but you also need to make sure you have 240 volts from L1 to L2 on the meter, one leg of the breaker or one of the two fuses could be blown.
If this is alright you only have a couple components left. The timer contacts and the drive motor. Either of these could be causing the issue.
To check the motor with the power disconnected check for continuity between switch terminal 5 and the Green(black) wire on the motor. If you have no continuity the motor is bad. Check for continuity between the terminal 6 and the yellow wire on the motor, if you have no continuity there the motor is bad. Check for continuity between terminal 1 and 2 on the motor if you you do not have continuity the motor is bad.
The timer should have continuity between the Yellow and Grey wire terminals for the motor to start.
I hope this helps
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
Testimonial: "Great advice, thank you for your help."
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