Question about Ovens
F3 error code
F-3 is usually a problem in the oven sensor circuit, most likely the sensor itself. It could be the sensor, the control board or a broken connection (wire, connector or thermal fuse) between the two. Will the code clear and allow the oven to operate at all?
Posted on Oct 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Profile-electric oven
Copper, F3 means oven temp sensor is open. You need to replace the probe. Easy job. Part number I have for this is WB23X5340, but double check your model number. Look it up on the net to see what you are going after...Catriver..post back
Posted on Sep 19, 2006
I have the same problem. I noticed that the oven gets to the selected temp ok. Then when the pilot attempts to RELIGHT, it gets the error F3. Did you get a solution? After other posts, I will see if the temp sensor is around 1100 ohm as suggested by others. Ken
Posted on Sep 24, 2007
Well right now I'm looking for how to just turn off the beeping. Our GE Profile isn't the same model, but it does the same thing. Found a fix that works, but we have to use it every few months when the keypad locks again. Here's the solution to getting it running again:
unscrew and take off the faceplate exposing the motherboard and chips/wires. unplug/unsnap the wide, flat power cord attached to the digital face. Take a pencil eraser and use it to clean the metal contact points where the power cord meets the display (the ones that are visible once u unplug the cord). Put it back together and tadaa... it works again.
My guess is that it gets some sort of buildup over time that u just have to clean off. Anyway, good luck. Hope this helps
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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