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My mahine does not pick up the bottom yard and thus no stitches are formed. I changed needle and yarn. Please tell me how to fix the problem?

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  • Maryna Colley
    Maryna Colley Oct 22, 2013

    Thank you for the help. The machine picks up stitches without a hitch:)

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  • Expert
  • 208 Answers

You may have to have the machine retimed if you have tried everything else

Posted on Oct 27, 2013

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SOURCE: not forming stitches

needle in backwards?

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: I am hemming blue jeans. The top stitch looks

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

Best Wishes
Martyn
Bargain Box in Australia

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: Brother XL--2600 Sewing Machine not picking up Stitches at all!

Take the thread out, Take the needle plate out Watch as the needle comes comes down, make sure the hook is just above the eye of the the needle as it makes its pass by the scarf of the needle if not refer to my post on timing.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

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I have Aran wool and want to knit a simple adult over-sweater. How many stitches do I cast on and what size needles, please.


You need a pattern to follow. For one thing, yarns vary in thickness, so the number of stitches needed will be different dependent on the yarn thickness, not to mention the adult size you are seeking.

You should probably knit a sample piece probably 12" x 12" and count the number of rows per inch and the number of stitches per inch in order to determine how many you will need width wise and length wise for your garment.

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How many stitches to crochet a full size shell stitch afghans


Depends on the yarn and needle used. A large needle and/or large yarn will produce larger shell stitches requiring fewer shells to create an afghan:

shell stitch afghan Google Search


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Jan 05, 2017 | Sewing Machines

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What size needles for bulky/12py wool?


It depends on your project. You need the size needle that will give you the stitch width and stitch length called for in the pattern. The pattern calls for a specific gauge, so you'll need to try out different needles, knitting a swatch on each needle size, and counting the number of stitches across and down to match the pattern specification. Does the pattern not give you a needle size? Needles come in either straight or circular in all various sizes as long as you stay within the same brand needle. (Needle brands differ from one to another, so try to stay within only one brand.) So a straight needle size 6 should be the same size as a circular needle size 6 (of the same brand).

However, although it may call for a specific size needle, you will still need to knit some test swatches because knitters usually knit looser or tighter, so one needs to adjust the needle size to accommodate those differences, ie someone who knits tightly may get 8 stitches to an inch, but a loose knitter may get only 6 stitches. But if the pattern says to cast on 48 stitches in for row 1, that means the 8 stitch gauge will yield a project that measures 6 inches wide (48/8=6). But a 6 stitch gauge will yield a project of 8 inches wide (48/6=8). The result would be one project will be 2 inches wider than the other.

But that is only half of the problem as you would still need to measure the number of rows per inch to get the length of the project. If there are more rows to the inch than specified, a garment with say an armhole that may be too small. If there are fewer rows to an inch, the result may be an armhole that is way to big.

Be very careful with your pattern and yarn selection. You will be much more successful if you stick to the number ply and yarn weight specified in the pattern, ie if the pattern calls for 2-ply 2 oz yarn, there may be some particularly difficult issues with substituting a 4-ply 4 oz. yarn. You may end up with a project that will not fit. For instance, you wouldn't want to use a heavier yarn to knit a baby garment. Baby garments usually call for baby yarn which is a specific ply and weight.

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Oct 30, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

What do yon and yfrn mean in a knitting pattern?


yon is usually Yarn On (or over) Needle. This is a yarn over between a purl and a knit stitch. (After the purl stitch, keep the working yarn in front of the needle. Then place the right needle into the next stitch so that the right needle is behind the left needle in the stitch. Wind the yarn around the needle and pull the loop through.)

yfrn is a Yarn foward and round the needle. This is a similar yarn over to the yon but is a little larger. The difference is that the yarn over is done after a knit stitch and before a purl stitch. After the knit stitch, bring the yarn in front of the needle. Wrap the yarn anti-clockwise around the right needle so that the yarn is again at the front of the work. Place the right needle in the front of the next stitch on the left needle. Then do a normal purl stitch.

You can see some videos and still photos here: http://www.stitcharena.com/library/hand-knitting/yfwd-yfrn-yrn-and-yon/ .

I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

How do you sew an Overlock stitch using yarn?


On a serger, you can only install larger threads in the loopers--but use regular thread in the needles. You can also use a cording foot, feed the yarn through the groove in the foot and overlock the stitches over and around the yarn.

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How do I cast off in knitting?


Take a needle several sizes larger than the ones you have used for the knitting - so the loops will be larger and the edge looser, knit the first two stitches onto the larger needle then use the tip of the other needle to lift the first stitch over the second one and right off the needle, so it is looped over the second stitch, but is no longer on the needle.
Knit another stitch and repeat the lifting over. I f you are casting off all the stitches continue to the end of the row and then cut the yarn, pass the end of the yarn through the last stitch and draw it up.
If you are only casting off part of the row then move the last stitch onto the right size needle and continue knitting on the stitches left in the row.

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How t change knitting instructions 5ply to 8ply


First of all try a guage/tension swatch. Cast on 25 stitches, use 5,5 mm needles and knit stocking stitch for 4 ins. This should tell you if the pattern will work with these needles and yarn.
Count your stitches over the 4 ins and see wht you have to the inch. This is your guage oe=r tension then check with your pattern to see what the guage/tension is.
To change a pattern this drastically needs an experienced knitter
If it is the pattern only that you want. then find a pattern for 8 ply and use the stitch count on the original pattern and modify for the new pattern.I wish you luck.

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Bernina south africa


Get your local technician to adjust needle/hook timing.

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Cording foot


a quilting bar attaches to one of the feet usually in the back and is attached by a little set screw. it is used as a guide to ride a long a previous line of stitching or a design to keep lines of stitches the same distance apart.
I'm familiar with 2 different types of cording feet. one looks like a zipper foot... very narrow and a notch on the side of the foot instead in the middle. to make cording ...fold a narrow piece of fabric in half and place yarn or cord along the inside of the fold.next place folded fabric with yarn inside under presser foot. but up the foot next to the yarn bump on the top side of folded fabric and stitch as close as possible. the second kind has a groove on the underside of the foot and the yarn bump follows this groove stitching is also done close to the yarn. some concideration in needle placement is needed depending on the thickness of the yarn or cord. always hand turn the needle up down the first few stitches to make sure the needle does not hit the foot.adjust if needed.

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