Question about Dayco 600l050 Synchro-cog Timing Belt

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Replacing timing belt on 2.4 l stratus im having problems with keeping cam gears lined up and if I get lucky when I rotate 2 revs and come back around to num 1 there off a few teeth its a 2000 dodge stratus thanks n advance

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I believe you need a cam holder tool to do this job. It is a tool that sits between both cams and hold them in place so that you can slip the belt over and tighten down the bearing and hydraulic tensioner. Then you can remove the tool. You might find this tool at a local parts store or a snap on truck.

Posted on Oct 22, 2013


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Problems of gm

You can rotate the cam/crank into a positon that will not move as you remove the old belt, as long as the new belt places the cam/crank in same position as the old belt had them, it don't matter where the timing marks are. Leave your old belt on, rotate to a position that will not move or have tension on belt, (no matter the marks) and replace the belt. Make sure to recheck timing marks after new belt is installed by rotating the crank/cam back to timing marks, or just trust that the belt was replaced without the cam or crank rotated. Easy off, easy on, just make sure the cam/crank are still in time as the old belt had them located. NOTE: timing marks are there in case of a broke belt, or for a car that has jumped time. As long as cam and crank are held in same positon, and car was in time before the procedure, it don't matter where the timing marks are at during belt replacement.

Dec 15, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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What to do if your cam is out of time

2.3 Liter distributorless engines the timing belt keeps the cam in time with crankshaft and the auxiliary shaft runs the oil pump line up marks to corresponding marks install belt. but there is a inspection hole on front of cover rotate crankshaft line up on tdc remove plug a dimple in gear should line up pointer if not rotate crankshaft 360 degrees check again no dimple belt has jumped from loose tensioner.

Nov 07, 2013 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

I have a 1998 Dodge Stratus ES and am having problems getting the timeing belt on. Can somebody please explain how we may put the belt back on without a bunch of trouble?

Make sure your timing marks are lined up and start putting your belt on the rear cam first that would be 1,3,5 cam. Then route it under the water pump and up around the front cam 2,4,6 cam being careful the rear cam don't jump off it's mark. Keep tension on the belt while routing it. Continue routing it over the idler pulley keeping tension on it route it down and around the crank sprocket. Now set your tension pulley and replace the tension pin. Once the belt is set hand crank the engine 2 to 3 complete cycles then recheck your marks. This is for a 2.5 engine. Good luck hope this helps.

Jun 20, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

98 dodge stratus,engine light came on and it died and won't start now.What could be wrong?

when you crank the engine over now, does it sound different than before? if yes, you probably have a broken timing belt. it is also common for the cam gear to slip out of position from the cam and cause an incorrect, but hard to diagnose, timing issue. other no start with check engine light on issues could be a faulty cam or crank sensor.

pull the codes from the vehicles computer. if there is a cam or crank sensor code, or if there is a code that says in some different wording "cam sensor signal does not match crank sensor singal", first check crankshaft to camshaft timing. if belt is ok and timing marks line up then i strongly suggest removing the bolt from the camshaft that holds the cam gear on. with the bolt and cam gear removed you should be able to tell if the cam gear has rotated on the camshaft. there should be a small pin sticking out of the camshaft. if it is broken off then you need to replace the camshaft. if the pin is still there and the timing is good then replace iether the cam or crank sensor depending on what code you have stored in the ecu memory. if the code is not for the cam/crank sensor then google search the code number e.g. "p0502" and your make and model.

Mar 23, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

How to change a timing belt on 91 S10 2.8L v6

That motor has a timing chain, not a timing belt. Replacing it requires removing the water pump, dropping the oil pan, removing the balancer and timing cover. Rotate the crank so the dots on the cam gear and crank gear line up at the 6 and 12 o clock positions respectively. Unbolt the cam gear and remove it and the chain. If you need to remove the crank gear you can use a three jaw puller or something similar to pull it off. Reinstall the crank gear lining up the gear with the keyway on the crank and press it on with the appropriate tool. Install the cam gear with the chain and make sure dots line up again. It may be necessary to remove the valve covers and rocker arms as well to rotate the cam shaft if need be.

Jan 10, 2010 | 1991 Chevrolet S-10

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Timing Belt Tensioner bolt broken off.

You may have a serious problem (timing belt tensioner). This tensioner keeps the belt 'taut' so it won't jump time. Daewoo engines are 'interferrence' engines (this means if the valve timing is 'off' (out of syncronization) you can damage/bend the valves in the head -- valve timing (timing belt ensures this). The solution is to take the vehicle into the shop and have it diagnosed to be sure/to know if any damage has occured -- if none, replace the tensioner... it's pretty simple to do, if you have the service manual.

May 26, 2009 | 2000 Daewoo Nubira

1 Answer

Engine timing mark diagram

timing on all camshaft im familiar with have a dot stamped on the gear and one on the adjacent gear it meshes with, the trick is to get the two dots to line up with each other for proper timing.
the camshaft runs 2:1 to the crankshaft, so if it wont run, that means your 180 degrees off. line everything back up the dots that is, take the belt off and rotate the cam 360 until the dots are in line again and reinstall the belt.
should fix you up.
hope this helps, good luck

May 20, 2009 | 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT

2 Answers

I cant get my 95 honda civic on timings the motor is 16v 1.5 l woundering if you could help

put the number one cylinder at top dead center and line up the timing marks on the cam gear and put the belt on

Apr 11, 2009 | 1995 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Engine turns will not start, timing belt reset 2x still wont start

willwork4u: Let me see if I can do you some good!
Lets start from scratch OK?
First, to avoid bending the valves providing they are not bent at this point, assuming you still have the belt on, Pull all the spark plugs out of the engine.
Now rotate the engine until the #1 piston is 1/2 way down the cylinder. The reason for this, is now, all the pistons are at the midway point in the motor and in no danger of hitting the valves. In this fashion, you can turn the cam to your hearts delight and not harm anything.
If you look at the cam gear closely, you will see a small hole in the outer parameter of the gear. Position the hole at the 12:00 PM position in relation to the cylinder head. If things are lined up correctly, look through the little hole and you can see a little mark that the hole will line up with. Additionally, the cam sprocket has a total of 6 large holes. Using the cylinder head surface where the valve cover mates with it, you should see that the cylinder head surface (looking through the holes) divides one hole on each side of the sprocket, exactly in 1/2. So you have two references, either will work.
Lets go to the bottom end now: Look at the crank gear. If you look close enough, you should see a small dot or punch mark close to the outside edge of the gear.
Look at the other gear (the larger one) and you should see on the outer edge, a line scribed into the edge of that gear.
What you are going to do now is "SLOWLY" rotate the crank clockwise until the dot is at about the 2:00 o'clock position.
As you are rotating the crank by hand, if you feel any resistance, like you have come up against something; STOP! In theory, you should not experience this situation. Assuming you don't and you have the crank gear in the 2:00 o clock position, rotate the larger gear until the line scribed in it lines up with the dot in the crank.
Essentially you should be able to take a straight edge and hold it dead center of the crank, pass it over the dot on the crank gear, pass it over the scribed line and the end of the straight edge should cut the center of the retaining bolt for the big gear, in 1/2!
If you have accomplished this, the engine is in proper time!!!!!!!!!
It's time to put the belt on.
You have a side which you want tight , which is what holds it in time and the other side is going to have some slack. The slack side is the side the tensioner is on.
If you look closely at the tensioner, you'll notice it is eccentric, this is what gives it the means of taking up the slack. Back the bolt off and rotate the tensioner to the position where it would have the least effect on the belt tension.
Carefully slide the belt onto the gears, starting at the bottom, meshing the teeth with the crank and pulling it tight (without turning the crank). Then carefully fit the belt over the next gear, meshing it with the belt teeth. The marks should remain lined up.
You want to feed the belt past the tensioner pulley, and stop on that side, keeping it snug on the gears. Note, carefully work the belt up over the cam gear. You will have to be moving the belt on the tensioner side, but it is important that you get the belt started and that it has remained lined up as well as fairly tight on that side.
Once you have the belt in place, rotate the tensioner eccentric to take the slack out of the belt. A good rule of thumb is that if you go to the longest span of the belt on the tensioner side, take the belt between you index finger and your thumb. You should only be able to twist it to about 45 degrees. Lock the tensioner in place. Torque the bolt 105 "inch" pounds. Use common sense and you don't need a torque wrench!
Once together, rotate the engine three full revolutions and recheck the belt tension, you can recheck your valve timing again if you want, by rolling the engine a little more.
What you can do if you want, to do a "Quick"compression" test, (if the engine is on a stand, rotating it by hand, you can place your thumb over the spark plug hole and rotate the crank four full revolutions. Do this for all four cylinders. You should feel some air pressure against your thumb on each cylinder.
If the engine is in the car, make sure the plug wires are where they can't zap you. Have someone crank the engine while you hold your thumb over each spark plug hole as the engine is cranked. You should get a nice"POP", "POP"! if it's got compression on a cylinder.
Assuming you have compression, we go to the distributor!
Bring the engine back around to TDC (top dead center) in the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder.
At this point, you want to look at where the #1 plug wire meets the distributor cap. This is where the rotor is going to point underneath the cap when the distributor is bolted down and in position.
SO, Now that you know where # 1 is on the distributor, take a magic marker before you remove the cap and just mark the spot on the outside of the distributor lining up with # 1.
Remove the cap and you can line the tip of the rotor up with the mark you just made.
When you go to install the distributor in the motor, as it starts to seat, the rotor will start to rotate because it is meshing with a gear inside the engine. You will have to rotate the rotor slightly back from where it lines up so the when you install the distributor, by the time it is flush with the block, it is perfectly lined up with your mark. Take into consideration, you have some leeway for adjustment to set ignition timing, but it is limited.
With the distributor properly set, bolted down, put the plugs back in, cap and wires back in place, make sure everything is nailed down and it should fire up. During the cranking, if it seems to crank and then slow down and then crank and then slow down, it means the timing is probably advanced too far, Rotate the distributor just a little counter clockwise and try it again. When the timing is fairly close, it should crank fairly easily without it sounding like it starts to turn and then like something is inside it bringing it to a near stop.
OK>>>>>I trust, this should be in pretty good detail short of my being there. I'll keep my fingers crossed that there are no bent valves. Good luck.......let me know how things go and let the folks at FIXYA know if I've done you any good.
Take caer YA hear?

Jun 24, 2008 | 1990 Dodge Daytona

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