Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The defrost cycle is not happening like it should, that's what causes the block of ice (and poor air flow). If you have all that defrosted look at the defrost bi-metal, it usually is a small round disk with a couple wires coming out of it and it's clipped on the coils. When it's cold enough, it passes electricity to the heat elements, when it gets hot enough it "opens" and kills power to the heat elements. If that is bad (swollen cracked or bloated) and not passing electricity to the elements that's the problem. Another item would be the defrost timer itself, if it doesn't work (no clock motor turning) then it will never go into defrost. And the last and usually least expected failure would be the heat element themselves not working
Posted on Oct 09, 2007
It sounds like you have a plugged defrost
drain line. This is where the water goes to in the bottom of your
freezer when it goes through the defrost (removal of ice from the
freezer coil) cycle. It sounds like that hole is plugged and now the
water/ice has now frozen in the vent that lets air circulate down into
your refrigerator compartment. What I usually do in this case is to
unplug the refrigerator, empty out the freezer compartment. Usually I
also end up either pulling off the back panel or the bottom panel (in
the freezer compartment) Looking for that defrost drain hole and
actually I use a hair dryer. I can sometimes do this also by pouring
small amounts of HOT tap water onto it and then sopping/absorbing it
away with a sponge or dishcloth. I repeat this until I get the water to
go down the drain tube.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Jun 13, 2008
We have just had to call out an engineer to get our 1 1/2 year old Hotpoint Graphite Frost Free Fridge Freezer repaired. The fridge had almost entitely stopped cooling even when on high. I was amazed at how easily the problem was sorted. The engineer removed all the basktes from the freezer to access the screws on the inside backpanel of the freezer. Once this panel was removed it was clear that the so called Frost Free doesn't really mean what it says. The ice need to be melted with a bit of simple care. It is obvious that with a bit of care it is easliy a diy job BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND READ THE NEXT PART BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO REMOVE THE ICE> The ice forms around variouys pipes etc and he usecd a screwdriver to help release the ice quicker than waiting for it to defrost and he also used a simple hairdryer to help speed up the process. He had a ntowel and a basin to take care of the water. Next time I would have no problem doing this myself but I would need to leave it a little while to defrost and NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER as I am sure somehow I would puncture a pipe or the wall of the freezer itself and I am quite used to doing the odd bit of DIY. On a difficulkty scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being difficult I would rate the job as about a 3. Hope this helps anyone who reads this about £70.
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
The double dashes in your display are for one of two reasons. First situation would be would be "you turned the unit off". Press the up arrow on the feezer or fresh food control until a 4 is in each display. Second, if the control is locked out, the board has been scrambled or failed possibly from a power surge. Unplug unit for 30 seconds, and plug it back in and try to set control's for "4". If controls are still locked out, the board (12868513) needs to be replaced.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
How to check everything
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
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