SOURCE: Tub seal has rip therefore washer is leaking.
Its pretty comlicated requires dissasembly of the front of the washer. A good tech can do in 1 hour. You may want to pay for it rather than spending all day and possibly damaging something. Let me know if you need further assistance.
SOURCE: Replacing Bellow Seal
Here ya go. A bit lengthy, but thorough. Carefully read through the instructions before you begin.
This
advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing
machines. Just follow these steps:
1.
Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm)
where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and
then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the screw(s)
behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above
the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off.
Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires
attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located
behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop
around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring.
Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the
rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will
also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of
the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is
on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as
long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the
front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care
to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in
a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the
bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on
either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that
are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom.
Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the
wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube
coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be
instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you
align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten The clamp
enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and
or clamp. In most cases The clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order
of how I explained to disassemble. make sure you connect the door latch
assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make
sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a
ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes
the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The
clamp is always difficult to get back in place.
If you cannot get The clamp to go back over the tube, you can live
without it. Some newer models do not
have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot
fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back
over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around
the door. Beginning at the top of the
door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. make sure to wire spring points towards the
bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions,
you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the
spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use
a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has
the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and
washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button
under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the
washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and
"C00" will be displayed on the console. the washer will run through a
series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If
you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any
time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any
leaks.
I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Post back if you need further assistance, or have any questions.
SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 Washing Machine Leaking
Have you looked behind the bellow under the folds to make sure there's no rips or tears? The bellow could appear okay on the outside, but still could have a tear somewhere out of plain view. I had this happen to me before.
The inner seal from the bellow to the tub could also be loose now. If you said a garment got stuck and the washer continued through the cycle, this could have loosen the seal where it attaches to the wash tub. You would need to tighten the band clamp around the facing of the tub if this is the case.
A good way in determining where the leak may be coming from is to remove the lower panel under the door. Start a wash cycle and watch to see where the water is coming out.
Now...if the tub seal is loose it may require some disassembly to get to. If you're going to go the route of disassembling the washer front, and have never replaced the bellow before, it probably wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway. My rationale: It's better to disassemble the washer once, rather than possibly having to do it all over again in the near future.
You can get a replacement bellow at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" section for item number 1 (part #8540952). It only costs about $32.
If you need instructions on how to replace the bellow, just go to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks". There is a write I posted there giving step-by-step instructions. If you cannot find it, or have any further questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps answer some of your questions.
SOURCE: Torn bellow on Maytag front load washer
there is a spring style clamp holding it to the front panel simply peel back slightly and "pop" it off, then holding it to the inner tub is a screw style clamp, depending on yr of production, either a 5/32 scrwe or a phillips, holding it in the 2 oclock position, release clamp andreinstall boot, it might take some time to get to fit backaround hte tub but itll bo, you gotta walk it on in spots ( like changing a tireon the bikes as a kid) itlll strectch over the rim and fit, just have to work it
SOURCE: Seal on front loading washer ripped
yes it can...check the yellowpages for the part or repair.
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