Question about AEG Lavamat 12710 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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Hole in plastic outer drum

A spoon got stuck between the inner and outer drum. The plastic outer drum now has a hole (about 7 x 5 cm) in the base, and the machine dumped its water. Is this repairable, or is it a write-off?

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I have plastic welded my son's hockey skate with an automotive bumper cover welder and surprisingly it has held up-its basicly like a soldiering iron with a dime size foot on it-it came with a universal welding sticks that have kevlar fibers in it-I would back up the repair area with 3m aluminum repair tape and fill in your hole-cheers Denyy

Posted on Oct 21, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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look at the bottom of the washer were the door closes the seal is held on with a spring wire,,unhook this wire and fold the seal inside the washer,,look for the inner drum there is another spring wire holding the inner part of the seal to the inner drum undo this as well,, pull old seal out through the door hole,,,now fold new seal so that the inner wire can be fitted round the new seal first to the inner drum,,then pull the new seal through the door hole and fit the outer wire to seal,,,
and then job a good un?,,, not easy a,,well i did tell you this!

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Murph!

Good job on the coupler and agitator cam! Way to go!

Now for the grinding noise... I assume that it wasn't making that noise before you worked on it, right? (except for the noise it makes when the coupler has failed. It make a kind of grinding noise, too.) So I'll assume that this is a different grinding noise.

2 things will cause this in "spin".

1.) Something is caught between the inner and outer tubs. Since you've had the cabinet off, you know that there is a perforated steel inner drum (the one with holes in it) and a plastic outer drum to contain the water. I've seen nails, paper clips, etc... get through the holes of the inner tub and get caught there. When the unit goes into spin, the object will spin along with the inner tub and rub the outer tub making a scraping/grinding noise.
To find out if this is the problem, remove the agitator again... yes the entire top and bottom portions of it. Now CAREFULLY inspect the inner tub and look for anything that may be stuck in the holes. It'll be small, so use a good flashlight.

2.) The "drive block" has cracked/broken and allowed the inner tub to drop to the point that it's grinding on the outer tub base. This one is a bit more intense than the fix above. If you would, please verify that there's nothing in the inner tub before we proceed to the next step.
Note----> I don't doubt that you can't handle the next repair. It's just that I want to eliminate the simple stuff before moving to the more complex stuff.

Let me know what you find, OK? Also... BEFORE you remove the agitator, look at the distance between the bottom of the agitator and the base of the inner tub. Use your finger for measurement. You should NOT be able to fit the tip of your finger between the two. If you can, write back 'cause then we'll be going into the drive block (#2) repair.

SG
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You can replace the rubber door seal yourself if you are logically minded and are handy with tools. Isolate the washer from the mains supply. Remove the top fixing screws at the back of the washer. Slide the top of the washer to the rear of the washer and remove. Now you will be able to see the outer drum and the securing band to the drum. This needs loosening and moving clear of the outer drum so you can disconnect the seal from the drum. When you open the door, you will find see that the door seal connects to the washer outer body. You should see a holding catch probably made of plastic. This has to be removed and take care not to break anything. When re fitting the seal,you will find on the front inner edge a small hole, this must be in the 6 o'clock position. Working from the door access, feed the new seal on the outer drum and secure it with the retaining band that you removed earlier, at this stage do not fully tighten as you may need to readjust the seal later on. Now working at the door, feed on the door seal and position the small hole at 6 o'clock. If you find that the seal is twisting, then you will have to readjust the the seal on the inner outer drum. When everything is lined up, tighten the inner securing band then the outer retaining band by the door. Recheck that the small hole on the door inner lip is at 6 o'clock and both the door an outer drum securing bands are tight. This done, check for leaks by part filling the washer and then putting the washer on an emptying cycle. If all is well, then isolate the power to the washer and refit the the top of the washer and secure with the screws you removed earlier. On no account put your hands or tools inside the washer when it is on and connected to the power supply.

I have not yet replaced a door seal on your model of washer, but I have done quite a few and the process is the same. I hope you can follow these instructions and if you come across a snag, think about it and i am sure you will find the solution. You can always get to me at FixYa.

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Baffles


Hi,
These are the paddle bits that are inside the drum? If so I had the same problem and I found that the lugs that hold them to the drum were broken.

I fixed mine by using plastic cable ties (=tie-wraps) passed through the slots in the paddles and through holes in the inner drum. It's fiddly getting the ends back out of the space between the outer and inner drums - I used another tie-wrap bent into a loop and stuffed into a suitable hole to "catch" the end of the tie I was fitting. It's not a pretty solution but it works and it is almost free!

If this "fixes ya", I'd appreciate a rating for my reply, If not, please delay the rating and add a comment with any extra info you have and I will try to think of something else.



Thanks, D

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