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The plastic 2 way nipple that fits into the monitor that relays pressure to the arm band tube has broken. Can I get a replacement part? the Model # is the 631-8303.

Posted by Anonymous on


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

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Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Broken water dispenser arm

I just fixed this today. 01/2/08

First, I got some super glue from Lowes especially designed for plastics.

I first glued some metal strips to the back or the broken off lever, so it will have extra support once glued back. I then applied glue to the broken surface of the lever arm and the support arms I glued earlier.

Super glue it awesome, just had to hold it in place for 1 minute, then let it cure for a few hours... working good as new.

I'm glad this worked for me, as I did not want to have to search for the part and then worry about taking the refrigerator apart.

After repair, I had to educate my wife on how to slam a cup into the arm HEHE.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 80637 Answers

SOURCE: coolant leak at the top radiator hose

the plastic radiator tank that the hose nipple is part of can be replaced by any radiator repair shot for about $75-100

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: return fuel nipple is broke from finger pump

The part previously recommended is not the correct part if it is the return line that is bad. Return line does not use the filter. If yours is like all the Ryobi units that I have seen you just need a piece (about 3-4" needed, but buy extra.) of 1/8 ID fuel line. You can usually order that from parts suppliers. Hardware stores will not have it. There is a fitting with a hose barb on it that fits through the tank. On the outside of the tank on the bottom there will be a round plastic ring, assuming the fitting is still in place and just the hose split at the fitting. Use a knife or thin blade of some type to pry off ring. It is actually around the hose that is over the barb. Keep ring, you will need again. Now push fitting up into the tank. You may have to trim off the hose that is outside the tank on the barb to get it to go into the tank. Shake tank around and get fitting out of tank. You will see there is a piece of hose on it yet. Remove that piece of hose. Now take the new hose and slide it onto the barb. It must go all the way to the top of the barb fitting so that the hose actually goes into the tank through the hole drilled in the tank. The OD of the hose acts as the seal to keep gas from leaking out of the tank. You may need to put some oil of some type (vegtable oil works well) on the barb and inside of hose to help slip it on and use some pliers with smooth or rounded jaws ( no serrations, will damage hose) to get hose on. Thread other end of hose into the fill hole of the tank and out the hole in the bottom of the tank. Hint: Straighten out paper clip or use small wire inserted into the hole from the bottom of the tank up towards the fill opening. Slip tube over that and use the wire to guid the tube directly to the opening. Pull hose through the tank. When fitting with barb and hose over it reached the hole in the tank it will resist being pulled through. Carefully pull firmly on hose to strech it so the hose/fitting "bulge" pulls into the hole in the tank. Look into tank and see when top flange of fitting is tight agains the bottom inside of tank. You should see bottom of barb outside of the tank with the hose on it. Once in place put the plastic retainer ring back over hose and push up to bottom of tank. It should fit snuggly when you get to the "bulge" area. Cut hose length as needed to fit onto straight tube fitting on primer bulb. Should be good to go. You may find that the other hoses are getting bad also and may want to change them at the same time, as they will probably be ready to crack also. You can reuse filter from tank if it is not plugged, just add a new hose as described previously. Otherwise you can order a new filter with the line already on it. That is the part that was recommended to you earlier. That line goes directly to the carb inlet barb. That barb is also hard to push hose on. Third line is from the return side of the carb to the suction side of the primer bulb. That is just a straight piece of 1/8" ID hose and pushes onto straight tube fittings, very easy to get hose on compared to barb fittings.

Hope this helps. Contact me if you have any questions.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: pin hole in 1/4" copper tubing feeding refrigerator

i have a lil hole in the lower panel seperating the fridge frm the freezer, what do i use to fill it up nd stop the gas leaking out

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: cuff connection to monitor broken need replacement

You will need to figure out which connecter it is so that you can have it replaced. I have a sheet that shows every one imaginable and after you narrow it down I can help you find it.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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2 Answers

How to bleed brakes

Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.

To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.

You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.

1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).

2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.

3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.

get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.

4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.

5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.

Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.


Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake


Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.

A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.


Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)


Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.


Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2002 nissan xterra and heater hose broke off at firewall,the insert thats inside the hose going into the firewall broke off inside the firewall.Is it possible to repair without geting behind the...

Remove the firewall rubber grommet to the broken pipe in the firewall. Clean the remaining end of the broken pipe real good, apply a drop of oil on it, then push the heater hose back in and tighten the hose clamp back on. You will need a 12 point box end wrench and it will be slow due to limited access. It should work.

Mar 06, 2012 | Nissan Xterra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Will not start washing process.

Potential problems:
1. Your vacuum tube has simply come off. 2. There is a hole in your vacuum tube, 3. Or you have a bad pressure switch.
To check,
1. Pop the top open on the unit and raise it up (for specifically how to do this, I'll need need the make and model number). You may need to disconnect wires from lid switch, noting where they go to put them back. 2. Locate a clear rubber-like tube come from under the control panel and going down the the bottom of the tub where it is connected to a small nipple. If it is not connected there, reconnect making sure it fits snug. You're problem is solved. 3. If it is connected, disconnect it and gently pull the end of the tube to you. Inspect if for holes or cracks or cuts. If it looks good, put the end of the tube (you may want to clean it if it's dirty) and blow air in it, keeping the pressure up and listen for a click under the console panel. Try again. If you hear the click, listen for air escaping from tube, maybe a pin hole or more. 4. If you do not hear the click when air pressure is applied, you have a bad pressure switch and it must be replaced, assuming the tube is actually connected to the pressure switch under the control panel. 5. Replace tube onto nipple near the bottom of the tub and replace the top. Reconnect lid switch. 6. Take control panel off and insure vacuum tube is connected to pressure switch. If it is, remove tube and blow pressure directly into pressure switch. If you hear no click, the pressure switch is bad.
To help you further or help you find the part, I will need the make and model number.
Good luck, this problem is more simple than it sounds.

Aug 02, 2010 | GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Need replacement part for 16-gal sprayer. It's the part that connects the hose to the gun -- hose end is broken off. What is this called and where can I get one?

The spray wand has a short plastic tube that the rubber hose slides over. Here's what it should look like, if it's not broken: 4bc420c.jpg
A 'band clamp' goes over the rubber hose to tighten it onto that little tube. If the band clamp is missing, you can get one at a hardware store - just find the size that fits over the rubber hose. If the rubber hose end is torn or cracked, just make a new clean cut with a knife.
But if the plastic tube has broken off the wand, you need to get a new wand. Good news - it's not expensive. This one's only 8 bucks.
Hope that helps you, if so please rate my solution, thanks and good luck!

Jun 02, 2010 | Northstar Garden

1 Answer

I am replacing the fuel tank assy and purge bulb (i.e. primer) on my Sears Craftsman model 358.798940. The original plastic tubing was old and brittle and broke apart while disassembling, so I could not...

The order of fuel travel should be:
Fuel filter to fuel hose to Carb's Fuel Supply nipple. (On the main body of the carb)
Primer Plate Nipple on carb to fuel hose to Suction Nipple on Primer Bulb. (It must pull fuel thru the carb, not push)
Pressure Nipple on Primer Bulb to fuel hose to Fuel Tank Return hose.

When correctly installed, the fuel will be PRESSED into the fuel tank via the return hose when primer is pressed in . . . and SUCTIONED out of the tank and into the Carburetor when primer in released.

Hope this helps,

Oct 16, 2009 | Garden

2 Answers

Brakes on 200 GMC jimmy

get a bleed kit or make up some with clear plastic tubing fitted to each bleed nipple
run tubing into a clear dispoable container for each with enough fluid in them so as not to allow air back up the tubing! 2inches deap should do it so long as the tube cant move out of the fluid!
then you can open all four nipples & slowly pump the pedal & dont lat the master cylinder get too low on fluid! [dont pump hard or fast as it creates bubbles]
when no air is left in the system [no bubbles in jars or tubing then close all nipplse!
allow a couple of minutes for the rubbers to settle to original shape then you should have pressure at the paedal!
Cheers Rob

Aug 16, 2009 | 1999 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Needs new black rubber tubing connector

my sunbeam model 7660 bp monitor needs a new part on tubing. on the inside of machine there's is a black rubber piece that connects the clear plastic tubes. where can I get a new part? thanks..

May 25, 2009 | Sunbeam Digital Blood Pressure Monitor

1 Answer

My clutch will not disengage, so I added some fluid to it but I don't know how to bleed the clutch line.

Make sure you know why the fluid was low in the first place, but here's how you bleed anything:

What you need:
>18" of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly on the bleeder nipple on the side of the engine but not over the wrench flats,
>Box end wrench that fits nipple perfectly.

Place the box end wrench on the nipple and make sure you can swing the wrench to loosen the bleeder. Place one end of the tube onto the nipple (with the wrench in place) and place the end of the tube into a jar or plastic bottle of waste brake fluid.

Bleeding the clutch or brakes following this procedure:

1. Top off the reservoir with brake fluid, leave lid off or temporarily replace it, if fluid can spill during bleeding.

2. Cyle the lever slowly (one thousand one, one thousand two...) three times.

3. At the end of the third cycle open the bleeder while holding the lever down. KEEP THE LEVER DOWN)

4. Close the bleeder once the fluid stops flowing ~5 secs.

5. Once the bleeder is closed securely you can release the lever. Repeat steps 2-5 about twenty times or until no small bubbles are seen coming out of the bleeder. CHECK and fill the fluid level in the reservoir before every second cycles. (If you run out of fluid you will have to start all over.)

Hope this helps,


May 18, 2009 | 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

1 Answer


About 2" inboard of the cast steel end housing, you don't need to be too precise. There is not much room between the arm tube and the axle tube so don't use a nipple with too long a thread.


Apr 27, 2009 | 1991 Peugeot 405

1 Answer


Ours is a SHU3300UC/06 model, basic model which we bought in 1999 so have had 9 years of trouble free service.
Recently we noticed that there was soap left in the soap dispenser after the machine had finished all the cycles. On further inspection we noticed that the upper level glasses, cups and bowels are not consistently clean and it appears that the upper washing arm is not working properly. At the back of the upper washer arm, there is a rectangular piece that slides over the two water outlet tubes projecting out of the back of the washer which supply H20 to the upper arm. On removing the upper arm and the rectangular connector, I noticed there is an inner place that I think is supposed to work like a washer that fits tightly over the 2 water outlet tubes in the protruding from the back of the washer. I noted that the upper opening in the washer/seal is broken so a proper seal is not established. This would cause insufficient water pressure getting to the upper arm and reduce its effectiveness. Now I'm trying to find the replacement part. It appears to be something than can easily be replaced.

Dec 06, 2008 | Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

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