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Kenmore 58582890 coldspot refrigerator

I have water leaking on the floor under the water filter. It leaked before and after I replaced the filter. I turned the water supply off to stop the leak. Can you help me detect the source of the leak.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: The water input to the water filter is leaking - admiral model GC2224GEKB

my water filter water line is leaking from the bottom in the back of my refrigerater. How can i get to it to repair it.

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: Water leak under refrigerator, Frigidaire, FRS6R5ESBC

chk out dis video
http://www.ehow.com/video_112132_fix-leaking-refrigerator.html

Posted on May 14, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer leaks water even after water supply turned off

Remove the food from the lower portion of the freezer and remove the 2 screws which hold the rear freezer panel on . Remove the panel and use a hair dryer to defrost the ice built up over the drain . Once you see the black drain hole , concentrate on defrosting the hole . Once defrosted , the ice water will drain into the hole . I would use a small hose inserted into the drain and blow thru , to remove any debris built up inside the drain . Reinstall the panel and food .

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore refrigerator coldspot #70192001 is not

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water filter leak Whirlpool ed25rfxfw01

I have an undersink filter from Whirlpool that is leaking also. I had an older one that also leaked and I replaced it. Worked fine for about six months then water all over under the sink. I believe it is leaking from the O-ring which seals the body and the cap. I think they have a lousy design and will look for another filter.

Posted on Jan 01, 2010

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