Question about Samsung RF267AERS French Door Refrigerator
This is a very common problem with Samsung refrigerators especially the type that has two evaporators. The evaporator that is inside the fresh food section and will usally give people the most problems. The drain below the evaporator in the fresh food section will begin to freeze over or become blocked by gunk inside the drain line. When this happens it causes the fresh food section to retain water because with the drain blocked the moisture and defrost condensate water now have nowhere to go. Once that drain is blocked the freezing over of the evaporator will begin to happen more often slowing down defrost which again make problems worse. Clean the drain, make sure the refrigerator is level and confirm the model number of your refrigerator. Your model has no defrost timer and defrost are determined by the motherboard. There is a way to force defrost with your model from the motherboard but until the drain is cleaned out defrost will not help much because the water has no where to go but to freeze over the evaporator and fan area of the fresh food section evaporator. Is your model the?=>RF267AERS I am here if you have questions, Sea Breeze
Posted on Oct 21, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: loud noise from the freezer side
The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.
Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).
Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.
Posted on Sep 20, 2008
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
SOURCE: My Samsung RS2534 side by
It uses a defrost element, built into the evaporator to melt the ice once every 1 - 2 hours. I suspect one of the sensors are failing, or the defrost element is faulty or worse.
You can test the defrost element with a decent multimeter, make sure power is getting to it, in at least 1 to 11/2 hours. If no power ever reaches the element, even when the compressor shuts off, then more likely the problem is the PCB. If power does reach it, but it does not get warm, the defrost emelent needs replacing.
Testing sensors on Samsung models are nearly impossible, so I am not even going to advise it. The resistance readings never make sense.
So in a nutshell: 1) Faulty Defrost Element or 2) Faulty Sensors or 3) Faulty PCB.
* If this solution helped you, please accept it
Posted on Aug 15, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 04, 2011 | Refrigerators
on Dec 02, 2009 | Refrigerators
May 03, 2011 | Maytag 22 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...
Sep 19, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...
Sep 12, 2010 | Maytag Admiral Top-Freezer Refrigerator
Sep 08, 2010 | Kenmore Refrigerators
Mar 13, 2010 | Refrigerators
Oct 31, 2009 | Estate TT21AKXKQ / TT21AKXKT Top Freezer...
Sep 11, 2009 | Magic Chef Refrigerators
163 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: