Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryercompletely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back ofthe dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries betteror ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like ablocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
If the vent doesn't make a difference,then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check thatthere isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum,(i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into thedrum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heatingelement isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermomter can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 160 degrees. Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
I had a similar problem years back. It was the ignitor. The ignitor is a ceramic like piece that heats up (glows red) that ignites the gas. Typically when that goes, you will see some white residue build up where it cracked, thus breaking the electrical connection. This thing works like a heating element on an electric stove, but rougher looking.
The part was about $30 at my local parts store. I bought an extra one just in case so I have it on hand. I installed it with common tools.
You can check it to see if you lost connection by using a volt meter.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
This most likely has a "Glow Rod" type of igniter for the gas, along with a photosensitive glow/flame detector. Most glow rods are ceramic with an electrically conductive coating that makes them a resistive element. They will last until the ceramic breaks. Be careful with it, if it's not broken, it is very fragile, and so is the replacement.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
SOURCE: Maytag DG482 Dryer Won't Heat
The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower
housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air
coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the
dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still
run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle)
thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas
valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the
no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is
energized the flame sensor
mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the
ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the
Ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot igniter and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas valve assembly. So... If your gas dryer has a good flame sensor and a good igniter AND the dryer will work some and quit, replace these: Gas operator coils
The coils get hot and quit on these machines when they get a little age on them. It is aggrevating because it is a hard to diagnose thing. But well worth the 20 bucks. SOURCE
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Oct 02, 2009 | Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer
Sep 01, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer
Jul 06, 2009 | Maytag Dryers
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