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Valsi gen wont start starts starts with starting fluid then quits cleaned carb still the same

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: dw7000 gen ,willnot run

My answer:

Hello,

Not sure if your Genset is "brand new never used" or not? If it is brand new then all the CHECKS below apply except for #1, as surely the Genset will not run in that case, and will vapor lock as from a vacuum in the gas tank.

Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR without OIL in the units to begin with!!!!

And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!

I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?

If you bought your Genset from other then a Home Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to contact that outlet and see what they have to say.

Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new Genset:

1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")

2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token (even if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5.

3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an "Electrical Switch" btw)? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air!

4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?

5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.

6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Float stuck in the CLOSED position not letting gas into the Main Jet? You might try and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the stuck Float inside. If there is a WIRE at the bottom of the Float Bowl on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Float then your problem is solved! NEVER FORCE ANYTHING!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly and/or totally remove the Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting inside to the Float at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing more! If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this before, and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start - even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!

7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have to ask anyway - Are you getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Some units ship with the spark wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition - hardly.

8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot - as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!

An added protective Genset circuit feature in that the generator itself may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition. Again - your operators or service manual should have a pretty good troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or never got one if you bought it used to begin with.

If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.

If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!

It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts. This being the least likely scenario from experience.

If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.

That's about all there is unless you got a Defective Genset from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!

Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.

Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: coleman powermate 5000 gen.

I assume it is a hand start genset. The most common problem if it has been sat for a while is rust on the ignition timing flywheel. If you take the pullcord housing off (recoil) then you will see a big flywheel with what can only be described as a big forked prong with a couple of wires on it. This flywheel should be stainless steel and rusts when sat around for a while without use. Its job is to complete the circuit to the spark plug every time the flywheel passes the forked prong at a given spot on the flywheel, the faster the wheel turns the faster the spark hence the engine runs quicker. Clen the rust off with a releasing agent (wd 40) hey presto!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted on Sep 19, 2008

mamicheddy
  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: I have an onan 2800 gen that will not charge

If the govenor didn't work that means that you placed the linkage on the carberator the wrong way. This will cause the genset to overspeed and possibly stop the genset from creating voltage. If the genset does not create voltage then you won't have a charger. Fix the linkage first by looking to make sure that the throttle plate is closed before starting genset. Once you start the genset check for voltage.

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: wont stay running

If the bowl has fresh gas (smell it), then the jetting is plugged up. Remove the carburetor, disassemble the jets (Idle and main) and soak in carburetor spray cleaner--blow out with compressed air. If the fuel in the bowl smells stale, then remove the float and needle valve. Wash the needle valve seat, but not the needle--just wipe clean. Check that fuel runs out of the fuel hose--if not, check for a plugged filter or bad hose. Hope this gets you running.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 251 Answers

SOURCE: Coleman Powermate Pro-Gen 5000, not been use in

remove bowl from the carb . clean it out ,and check for free fuel flow

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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You may only need to give it a good cleaning. Get some "Sea Foam" carbureator cleaner Homepage Sea Foam Sales Company Simply take the carb off and clean it thoroughly with the Sea Foam product and you probably won't need any parts. Also, be sure to add a fuel stabilizer to your fuel supply. "Stabil" is a good product for this.

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Not sure what you meant by starting fluid didn't make a difference. If it fired (tried to start/run) after using starter fluid, then fuel flow is the problem. One technique I've used to troubleshoot a mower someone gave to me, is to place my hand over the air intake of the carb and see if I can keep it running by choking with my hand. For me, its worked, and basically it proved that the carb was bad. If this works, then try cleaning carb...replace needle valve and float if necessary. A repair didn't work for me, had to replace whole carb ~$80. If the solution is a repair is to the fuel system...do not spare expense in the future on using NON-ethanol gas or good additive that neutralizes the effects of the ethanol. Small engines, especially ones not used daily, will suffer damage from ethanol gasoline. A cheap price to pay for the aggravation your going through now.

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I would say that the incorrect of use of gasket goo instead of the proper gasket has spilled into the bowl after assembly and is blocking the main jet --again
when working on a carby , there is no successful "short cut or lazy action"

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Hi men2cu...
Try this method, being you have spark and gas getting to the carburetor...

Get a can of starting fluid, and spray a small amount of it into the carburetor and then try to crank it again...if it cranks and runs then problem fixed...if it cranks and shuts off right away, then you have some trash in your inlet valve in your carburetor.
You can try tapping the carburetor lightly with a hammer and sometimes that will dislodge the float needle if it doesn't dislodge the needle valve then the carburetor will have to be disassemble and cleaned.
Once this is complete your generator should run fine.
Please take time to rate me

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I would check or replace the fuel filter and also check your Air filter too. the fuel filter should be at the end of the fuel line in the tank. If that wont work try cleaning the carb

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As for checking for a spark, remove the plug from the engine, plug in to lead, then rest it somewhere convenient, with the threaded end to ground. (ie touching the chassis or frame)
The low oil indicator may be on the side of the engine, but I'm not certain.
If you discover that the spark is good, it could be a timing problem.
If there is no spark, it's probably the magneto.
I hope that helps.

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