Question about Fisher and Paykel SMARTLOAD DE62TG1 Electric Dryer

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Dryer heating elements lite up before machine is powered on, then trips the high temp breaker (red reset button). We have to unplug it from 220 service, reset breaker then put clothes in and turn it on, we have to watch for when clothes are dry, then pull the plug or we end up having to reset red button and start over. Thoughts?

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  • Contributor
  • 50 Answers

Bad motor the safety switch in it is bad closed all the time

Posted on May 04, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 883 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher and paykel clothes dryer ED 54 -U

go back to the last thing that changed..."as soon as I put the unit back together"...what item may have pinched a wire during re-assembly....not saying it wasn't pinched before you started. I am saying there is a possibility of a wire pinched to chassis...an electrical short.

Posted on Jun 05, 2007

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm

Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.

Posted on Aug 23, 2007

abhishek33
  • 1239 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel degx1 electric clothes dryer


Thermostats, the dryer temperature control switches, are controlled by the temperature inside the dryer or by the heat of the motor. One or more thermostats on the panel can be adjusted to control the temperature in the dryer. Operating thermostats sometimes stick, causing control problems. These thermostats are usually positioned near the exhaust duct bulkhead or the fan housing of the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to get at them. 

Before you make any checks, try tapping the housing of the thermostats lightly with the handle of a screwdriver. This may jar the contacts loose. Temperature control switches are located behind the dryer control panel, and the panel must be removed for switch testing or replacement. Here's how to test and replace the thermostat:

Step 1: To check the control panel thermostat, make sure power is off to the dryer. Test the thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 2:
 If necessary, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Step 3: To check an operating thermostat, first make absolutely certain that the power to the dryer has been turned off and the dryer is cool. Then disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat. Test an operating thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; clip one probe to each terminal of the thermostat. Disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat so that the meter won't give a false reading. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer is working but not heating up or drying clothes

bad heat element

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: First the dryer stopped heating, then when the

This is a situation that you need to be very careful with. It sounds like you have a grounded heating element. If this is the case, then the current can be running through the dryer's frame and can cause electrical shock. Keep the dryer unplugged and check the heating element for continuity. If it has none, replace the heating element. BE CAREFUL. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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2 Answers

My dryer does not have heat. It turns but there us no heat. We just moved and it worked before the move but now dosent


Check the breaker. What happens is one half of the 220 volt trips. Usually the heat side. To reset, FORCEFULLY turn the breaker, FULLY OFF. Not fully off >> you can get clicks, but not "catch" the actual tripped breaker. Fully off, and then back on again. This is the most common issue.

From that point, be sure to VERIFY that you have air flow. Disconnect hose from back of dryer, run dryer and form opinion on air volume. Hook hose back up, turn on machine, and go outside and verify very similar air flow. Anything less is restricted exhaust..

If nothing from both of these, you need to open up the machine and look for disconnected wires that may have been dislodged during transport (unlikely). Be sure to unplug as the inside of the dryer has 220 volts and you can get seriously hurt or KILLED. If not certain of your abilities, call a repair guy. No need to get hurt.

Dec 03, 2010 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

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The dryer is not drying. i dont know where the element is or where to even buy a new one. not sure it also could be the thermostat i think


More commonly yet is 1/2 of a 220 volt breaker tripped. Fully and firmly turn the 220 breaker OFF, then on again. If not FULLY off, it may not reset a tripped breaker. Many dryers now are close to the limits on the heating side of the circuit. The motor and controllers are typically on the other 1/2 of the 220, and continue to work.

If this is not the issue, the element is accessed from the back. If you are not CERTAIN about your abilities around high voltage, you should stay out, you can die easily. If you are OKAY, grab your metere and look for opens at the high temprature safety switches. Look for discolored wiring connections. Poor connections overheat and distort and burn wires. Replace both sides of a burned connection, and the wires BACK to a point that there is no heat damage, or quick failure.

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you will need a volt / ohm meter which you can buy at walmart or any hard ware store.once you have one set it to ohms. pull rear panel and check to see is terminals to the heater have resistance.if it does check the thermostats on the side of the element.but first make sure you have 220 volts at the dryer connection on the dryer the far two terminals should have 220 v if you dont trace the wires back starting at the breaker

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My Maytag Bravo Steam Dryer runs for about 5 minutes and gets hot and then kicks the breaker in the breaker box. HELP!!


Hello there:
It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:It could be also wired backwardes so make sure to have this checked'

If the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a qualified appliance repair technician. If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box.

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2year old ge dryer trips breaker when it's turned on, but sometimes will run a complete cycle before it shuts off.


HELLO THERE
Electric dryers require the use of a 220 volt line. The dryer heating elements run off of 220 volts. An excessive draw of electricity, or a short in the wiring can blow a fuse or trip a breaker. This happens to protect sensitive components from damage, and to help prevent fires. Every other dryer component operates off of 110 volts, the timer, motor, etc. Usually when a fuse blows or a circuit trips, it's because there's to much draw on the power line.
It is very possible for one part of your dryer to work fine, and yet another to have a problem, such as a short circuit. A short circuit may be caused by the heating element, internal wiring, or the main power cord.
To troubleshoot this problem, unplug the dryer and check to see if the circuit breaker or fuse remains on when the dryer is unplugged. If they stay on, it's more than likely the problem is somewhere in the dryer.
If your fuse blows, or the circuit breaker trips when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the circuit breaker, fuse box, or house wiring; contact a professional electrician.

OK I hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Michael

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Whirpool LER4634JQ1 runs but no heat checked the vent it is fine ...no lint build up in either the dryer or the vent


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuit can be accessed by simply removing the back panel of the dryer. The heating circuits will be located on the right hand side. The Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set (part number AP3094244). Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. The heating element part number is AP3094254. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:

  • If the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician.

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Make sure that both poles of your circuit are live - An electric dryer uses 220 volts to the heating element, but taps into only one pole (110 volt) for the motor that spins the drum. Check your circuit breaker to make sure that neither pole has tripped.

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hi. I can help you.

Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:


  • If the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician.

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