Question about Viking Ovens
1.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
2.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
4.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!
Posted on May 11, 2015
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Oven burners won't shut off
Bat, your model number is right on accurate. Here's the scoop... the F3-E2 means the temp sensor inside the oven cavity needs replacing, but I doubt that your problem is the sensor. The problem is your "microcomputer". I call it an ERC for short. There are 3 separate circuits on your ERC; low voltage for your keypad, medium voltage for the mechanical relays and high voltage for you elements. When you program a cook time/temperature, the ERC translates this into medium voltage and activates the proper relay on the ERC (i.e... "bake", "bake w/ convection", etc...) to send high voltage to the proper component. All of that to say this, the relay on the board that activates the bake element is "welded" shut. When powered off, the relay won't open up! This will result in run-away temps. I've seen this before on Whirlpools. The ERC will have to be replaced, the part number is #8302994 and lists for ~$180.00 at your local appliance parts store. If you need assistance with the replacement procedure, post back. If you decide to get in there without posting back, DISCONNECT POWER AT THE BREAKER PRIOR TO ANY SERVICE.
Posted on Aug 15, 2007
SOURCE: Thermador Professional Oven
hey man don;t worry i have too much solution if i explain u every thing then you confused so i explain one and if u want another then e-mail me on firstname.lastname@example.org so listen carefully
Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner.
Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth.
Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious blockage.
Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.
An oven that won't heat can occur for a variety of reasons.
and if not then open this link http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-an-oven.htm
Posted on Nov 23, 2007
SOURCE: cleaning our viking oven
I had to clean mine the old fashioned way -oven cleaner and elbow grease. Fortunately the oven comes apart in ways I never imagined so I could remove, for instance, the sides and bottom and clean them without bending over with my head in the oven!
Posted on Dec 22, 2007
There is a cover plate that has two screws holding it down. Inspect the pilot area and you will see a hot surface igniter sitting right next to it.. That is what lights pilot and then the pilot lights main burner. You need a new igniter. Also do not touch any part of the hot surface igniter as human oil will shorten the life of part.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
The issue seems to be with pressure regulator that is bad
and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further
Jul 26, 2011 | Viking 30" Professional Select Built-in...
Apr 22, 2011 | Viking 27" Professional Select Built-in...
Mar 12, 2011 | Viking Ovens
Dec 30, 2010 | Viking Ovens
Apr 04, 2010 | Viking 27" Professional Select Built-in...
Feb 11, 2010 | Viking 27" Professional Select Built-in...
Jul 17, 2009 | Ovens
Jun 27, 2009 | Ovens
Sep 30, 2007 | Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven
Aug 14, 2007 | Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven
143 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!