Question about Delta & Single Handle Shower Faucet

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1970 Mueller shower diverter not working properly. When I turn the shower on the water will run briefly then stop completly and rattle water lines. I can remove the outer nut on diverter stem but stem won't unscrew. My goal is to change rubber washer & maby diverter stem.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: low flow hot water in Delta Shower

If your water heater is old or has been recently replaced, it will slough off debris that will get caught in the hot water supply side of the faucet. You have to disassimble the faucet and use a dental pic to remove the debris from it. This is a real common occurance. You can also try to flush out that side by removing the parts and then slowly turning on the water without the parts inside. Be careful not to flood your bathroom when you do this. But usually you have to dig it out. I have spent as high as 3 hours digging the liner from the dip tube of a water heater out of a faucet.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

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SOURCE: replace delta single handle shower cylinder

Yes, I believe this unit uses a cartridge right? They do fit a little tight due to the small washers on the back side of the cartridge. If this is the one I'm thinking of, there are two leg like appendenges that come off the back and fit into small holes at the back of the manifold or what some call mixing valve housing.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

woobie dog
  • 1273 Answers

SOURCE: diverter valve does turn to redirect the water

Hello. W/D here....
I'll have to be general in this info as I don't know your specific valve, but I have worked on many diverter valves.
Either the packing gland on your valve is too tight, or you have a damaged diverter valve.
1. Make sure water won't come out in the tub or shower when your water is turned off; that is, that your water valves don't leak. If they do, you'll have to shut off the water.
2. Gain access to the valve body/diverter valve: Remove the plastic cap on the knob, remove the screw then remove the knob. The metal tube will unscrew from the valve body.
3. It gets a bit tricky here, so bear with me... Looking down the valve stem, there are two nuts surrounding the valve stem. The one closest to you is the packing gland nut. The inner one is the valve cartridge nut. The tricky part is that the nuts are difficult to get at. Turning (loosening) on the outer nut will make the valve easier to operate, and more likely to leak. A general rule for packing glands is that they should be just tight enough not to leak, plus 1/4 turn.
You can buy a set of thin wall sockets at Lowe's or similar, and they are handy. But....you may be able to slip a deep well socket onto the nut and turn it. This will save you ~$15, if it works... Unless you are familiar with adjusting packing glands, it will be easier to just replace the entire valve. Get a socket that will fit the valve body. Place the socket on the valve; the stem will have to pass through the square socket drive hole. You will have to use a pair of channel locks or pipe wrench (or similar) on the socket to remove the valve cartridge. When you have the valve out, look inside the valve with a flashlight and you'll see the valve seat. It will have a square or hexagonal hole in it. Check with your finger for nicks. If it is damaged, remove it. The valve seat wrench is available at a hardware store reasonably, ~$10. Pull the valve out and take it with you to the hardware store. Reinstallation is the reverse of the removal with two exceptions: make sure that the valve stem is "open", and make sure that the packing gland is snug, but not too tight. The easiest way to adjust it is to put the handle on the valve and to operate the valve in your hand. Tighten the gland to snug and operate the valve. Make adjustments in this manner until the valve is still easy to operate, but is getting harder to operate as you tighten it...you'll get the feel for it. Once you're satisfied for the most part, install the valve. Usually there is a plastic gasket or "O" ring that will need to go on the threads. Install according to the instructions included. Once the valve cartridge is installed, operate the valve a few times. Complete the reassembly.
Regards, --W/D--

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: shower diverter push handle is squirting water out

If you are handy, the best solution is to call delta and have them send you a new diverter. They will need the model of your faucet. The new diverter will come with instructions on the install process. As far as fixing it without the new diverter, I don't believe you will be able to.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

alaskabrat11
  • 278 Answers

SOURCE: Leaky Tub Faucet (Antique Reproduction)

sometimes check the faucet screws they come loose or if they are old you might want to replace the whole diverter, take them to lowes or home depot and have them guys in the plumbing department hook you up. trust me you are opening a can of worms with rubber valve seats just get new ones. Make sure before pulling you cut off water supply to them.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

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1 Answer

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You will have to replace the shower diverter button. Remove the handle, remove the faceplate, and the diverter will screw out. Any plumbing supply that carries Moen products will have a replacement button for your valve

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You should also have a diverter in the spout. Just turn the old spout off and turn the diverter spout on. You lift the ball on top to use the shower.

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1 Answer

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the seal on the diverter may have fallen off, or bad/dirty diverter.

when the water is turned off, does the diverter return to "normally open" state? (no divert, goes directly through tub spout)

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We have installed a moen 82490 one handle tub & shower unit. When we turn on the water you could shower and bath at the same time. If you pull the plug for just a shower the water to the spout stops...


If you pull the silver knob on the tub spout up, the diverter located located inside will redirect water up to the shower head and when lowered it will return the water to the tub spout. It sounds as thought the diverter is not working properly. Hope this helps..

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I have turned my shower on by the diverter then the water just stops. I release the diverter and the water comes out of the facet. Then I pull the diverter up the shower comes on and then a few seconds...


It is air in the line. I had the same problem. To solve it you need to find the main water valve in your house, usually in the basement, and shut it off. Then go to the faucet that is giving you the problem and turn on both hot and cold and let them run for a few minutes until there is no water coming out. Leave the faucets turned on and then go back to the main valve and turn it back on. You will hear sputtering noises as the water starts coming back through. Let it run for a few minutes. I had to do it a couple of times to get all of the air out. if that is not working, then you should try to do the same thing, but also open and drain the lowest faucet in your house, like in the basement. Hope that helps. It worked for me. <!-- from fixya rte -->

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1 Answer

No running water from my shower


Check water lines to shower and make sure that there is no blockage or water cut off to it. Valve itself could be bad also or blockage inside it.

I f it is a tub & shower unit the diverter may be bad or stuck in place restricting water flow. Some are push button on the valve or a pull unit on tub spout to send water to shower head.
Cut water off and remove to inspect for reason not functioning correctly.
Remove shower head to inspect for blockage. The srceen may be stopped up for the shower head. Remove turn water on and see if any flow comes out shower arm.

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try taking the shower head off and see if there is something stuck in it. sometimes things will come through the water lines and lodge themselves in the valves as well. if the shower head isn't clogged try dismantling the valve that turns the shower head on and then turn the water on when its out and flush the port out.

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try replacing spout, sounds like the old one is a lil bit worn

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