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My Comfort aire REG-123A blows cool air when in heat mode

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  • 3 Answers

To melt ice from outside compressor sometimes reverts operation. If this occurring often then is useless. Get a radiation heater.

Posted on Oct 20, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mcgyver468
  • 710 Answers

SOURCE: Bryant Legacy Line air conditioning not blowing cool air..

Your outdoor condenser is in heat mode. Check the wires on the thermostat. Sounds like a small wiring problem and nothing else. Good luck. Please keep me posted as to you progress.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 439 Answers

SOURCE: Central air/heat pump not putting out cold air

I have some things for you to check. If you look at the outside unit the lines going into the house. Are they frozen? Have you had any yard work done, the reason I ask is they could have accidentally cut or pulled out the thermostat wires to the ac unit. Also, inside check for the same thing, frozen lines. Also, you may want to check the drain coming from the inside unit, it may be clogged.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: no cool air. blowing warm air

is breaker for condenser tripped---has it been running before -----is fan on outdoor ubnit running?

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: "cool on " flashing..no heat or cool air blowing

when its flashing its in a 5 min delay mode if you wait 5 min and still flashing you may need a new stat. but give it a full 5 min.

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

  • 251 Answers

SOURCE: Haier air conditioner will not kick on to air

A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner, the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power. If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be used to assure that the voltage is correct.

For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat. If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem. Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.

Central air conditioners for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.

The next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil. This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working, the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil. A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.

Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.

As you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic way.
There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the
US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.


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Posted on Jun 07, 2011

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Model: REG-123H
  • UPC: 855326002968
  • Product Type: 12,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner & Heater
  • Product Dimensions: L: 24.00" x W: 24.00" x H: 16.00"
  • Product Weight: 88.00 lbs.
  • Product Color: White
  • Application: Used to cool individual rooms
  • Type: Window Air Conditioner
  • Warranty: 1 year; 5 years sealed system
  • Coverage Area: 550 square feet
  • Voltage: 230 volts
  • Heater: Yes
  • Air Flow: 266 CFM
  • Amps: 5.5 amps
  • Heating Capacity: 11000 BTUs
  • Frequency: 60 Hz
  • Cooling Capacity: 12000 BTUs
  • Dehumidifying Capacity: 3.6 pints
  • EER: 9.8
  • Heat Pump: No
  • Number of Fan Speeds: 3
  • Programmable Timer: Yes
  • Timer Length: 24 hour
  • Refrigerant Type: R-410A
  • Air Conditioner Type: Cool/Heat
  • Energy Star Rated: No
  • Air Filter: Yes
  • Built-In Air Purification System: No
  • Display Type: Digital
  • Remote Control: Yes
  • Adjustable Louvers: Yes
  • Adjustable Side Panels: Yes
  • Compatible Window Size: Min. Window
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