I had a customer with the same issue, f350 sometimes won't start. He had two issues The pig tail on the alternator on these will brake internally due to a pretty tight pull on the connector breaks the ground wire inside and will not have great connectivity for recharging the dual battery set up also not giving the correct voltage to start the truck. Two) believe it or not the a/c compressor will start to go out and will seize up a little bit at a time up until it stops turning completely. When it does seize up it will feel like the motor is locked up all you will get is a hard click, followed by the sound of the belt streaching kind like a (boing ) sound, if the truck gets to this point cut the belt and replace the a/c system .
SOURCE: Code #P0171 & code #P0174
The intake manifold gaskets need replacement as well as the o-rings inside - if you call FORD they should be able to get you the correct parts.
SOURCE: 95 F150 wont crank
the starter should be replaced. The solenoid is kikcing the pinion out but there is no contact being made to turn the starter motor. I have the exact same truck and before i changed the starter used the old starter tap trick. Tap the starter casing with a hammer and it should start turning again. hope this was helpful for you. Good luck.
SOURCE: Car wont start, makes a clicking sound under the hood
Nissan: Is the clicking sound loud like a solenoid or mild like a relay? Use a test light to see if your getting juice to the solenoid. Also might want to check for juice in and out of the clutch switch while your at it.
Truck: Check for juice at the starter. If the new solenoid is clicking, it's probably working, so the next thing to check is for juice at the starter. If yes, then disconnect the battery and drop the starter and have it tested. If it's not the starter, pull the spark plugs out and try turning the engine by hand with a braker bar and socket on the harmonic balancer. Is there any reason to suspect that the enging might be siezed up?
SOURCE: 1994 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel 7.3 l Overdrive blinking
ford diesels from that year had a funky problem getting the crank triggers to work 100% of the time the software fix they refer to might be the one that alloud a poorer quality signal from the crank trigger to work , this is not a fix but a work around (no good)
first verify that a fault for the crank trigger sensor is held in memory with a scan tool (there not that expensive now)
if so replace it and don't forget to seal it with locktite blue (or it'll unscrew itself)
the trans od needs to see the crank trigger signal to determine "load" to high no Od bad signal makes eec go into can't decide mode and drops in/out of od
ohh a dead giveaway it's the sensor your tach will bounce (allot) at a fixed engine speed (2000 rpm)
also i just looked there's a TSB on throttle posisition sensors(oil vapor intrusion) as well affecting Od on transmissions but that being bad will make engine speed surge too and you did'nt mention that ?
yea EEC test is the way to go but get your own
SOURCE: Owner Manual/Repair Manual with diagrams for 1999 F350 4x4 Diesel
Check out faxonautoliterature. They list an original Ford wiring diagram manual for your truck for $59. They also have a couple of different Ford service manuals for your engine, diagnostics and repair. If your wiring and relay problems are engine specific then a copy of Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part # 10330, will be right up your ally. For $20 it provides an excellent trouble shooting and repair manual for the DIY diesel owner. It has separate sectons for the 6.9 and 7.3 engines as well as GM. I know this isn't free but I hope it will help.
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