Question about LG LRBC22544 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Probably heating element in freezer is broken.
Remove power and defrost. Remove wall panels in back of freezer to Check heater element behind panels With ohm meter should read 20 ohms or less. You could remove it and bring it to a local repair shop and have them test it and if required order you a new one. If this does not work it may be the control board
Posted on Nov 07, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm no major appliance repairman. However, after reading several posts, I investigated the issue further since I received an ER FF on the front panel. I have a LFX25960SW refrigerator. I pulled the top and bottom baskets out, and was able to take the back panel out from inside. There was a solid block of ice built up around both fans and wires. I took a blow dryer and gradually melted the ice around the fans and wires. Then, as I was able, I pulled the remaining ice chunks off of the wires. I put the thing back together and it cleared the message. My wife says no more LG appliances for us. :)
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
You posted under an incorrect model number, so can only give general info. IF is a code for ice room fan. It is a fan located in a plastic box in the upper left hand corner of the freezer. The IF code shows up if the control board does not get a feedback signal from the fan telling the control board that the fan is running. I'd check to see if there is some ice blocking the fan blade. If that is not the case, you will need a meter to do further diagnostics to find out if your problem is with the fan motor or the control board. (note: when you turn the icemaker off, the fan will no longer blow cold air into the ice room, and all the ice will melt. Also, when the icemaker bin is full, the same basic thing can happen. Steady use of ice or dumping the bin will prevent ice from melting in bin.) The fan runs on 12 to 16 volts DC (variable speed), and the feed back signal is about 4.5 volts DC.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Posted on Jan 24, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, I'll check it out when I get home from work. It's nice that someone gets right back to you, especially on a weekend when no one's around"
SOURCE: not making ice error code 1f
Pull the line off at the icemaker and check for a filter at the inlet...often **** builds up there and stops off the water...
Here are some basic tips for ice maker troubleshooting...
Ice Maker Problems and Ice Maker Troubleshooting
Posted on Jul 13, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 29, 2017 | Refrigerators
Jun 06, 2012 | Refrigerators
Error Code "Er FF" indicates a problem with the unit's freezer fan.
The freezer fan controls the temperature in the freezer. The source of this error is most likely ice buildup. As with the Er IF error, allowing the unit to thaw should resolve the issue. This can be caused by frost accumulation on or around the freezer fan. Unplug the unit for 3-4 hours to allow this to melt off. If error code persists, call Customer Service.
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