My question is: The on/off switch is very hard to turn!!!Almost need pliers to turn it, Well, My buddy used the pliers I think!!, Well, now only 1 channel or 1 speaker is playing, the other speaker is very faint.!! Does the on/off switch have anything to do with now only the one channel working or speaker working?? They have both been working fine. I know it's not the pre-amp and if I change the inputs on the back of the amp than the other speaker works and the other is faint. If so, how to get the knob off the on/off switch?? I took the little allen set screw out and it still doesn't come off. I was going to look and see if I could line up the set screw and maybe this would make the switch work easier and MAYBE!!! both channels would work??? What do ya'all think???
Sounds like something was spilled into the amp
and it got into the controls, switch and switch knob. As for the knob, lean the amp forward about 45 degrees and dribble hot water into the space behind the knob slowly. Try to keep the water from going inside the amp. Eventually, the knob should come off with some pulling & twisting. Once you get it off, replace both pots and the switch.
If water gets into the amp just dry it up with paper towels, etc. and let it continue to dry while getting the new parts.
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First confirmed if your speaker and wire are not shorted.
Once it is in good condition then it has a big chances that you have a faulty output IC.
This is quite technical and I've advice to send it to qualified service center to isolate the problem.
This is fixable.
Thanks for using fixya.
Nice amp. There is a breaker/switch on the back that trips to protect the amp. Turn it off, then back on and see if the green indicator comes back. If the breaker trips again, that's probably an indication of a more serious internal problem.
Before asuming it is the power transistors check the power on relay first as mine had the same proble and it was because of the Relay that did not switch on the one channel or amp (remember this is a power amp and consist of two mono amps)
Most shops charge a fixed fee for labor and add in the parts cost. The capacitor cost can be anywhere from $1 each to over $10 each, depending upon their value and voltage rating. Typically I would charge between $80 and $120 for labor with a unit like this. Since this is a part time job for me because I like the work, my charges tend to be less than a full time shop.Realistically, this type of repair would cost between $150 and $200 and should include both a warranty for the work as well as bench burn-in time.
The only component I can think of that fits your description is a bypass capacitor for filtering high frequency interference. That should NEVER get hot. This amp is going into protective shutdown. This unit should be brought in for service. Continued attempts to run this will end up causing additional damage. Where are you located?
I believed you got 1 or 2 electrolytic capacitors were dry out so it missed 17V + or -- regulators in the preamp sections that why both side light are on If you go to 1 of the service center Crown in your town it would cost you between $100 to $200 I use Australian dollars
The protection circuit is most likely shutting down the amp because of heat. When the amp shuts down, does it feel hot? If not, then further investigation into the protection circuit will be necessary. This is not a problem that is likely to be diagnosed remotely as measurements will be required internally once the amp has stopped working. Check the sepaker wires for shorts that will cause the amp to work extra hard (generating extra heat). Other than that, you will need a servicer to diagnose further.
make cleaning to your filter by air blower------- keep good ventilation around in the pass of air(in-out)----after you finish try to test your amp by connecting one speaker only at a time until you find the bad one--------------if all above did not pass you will have internal problem of hardware and needs service center.
Crown CE amps have a very decent service manual that give test points to check for faults. In these amps protect mode is a good sign that major components are not burnt out ie, (Transformer).
With a good Digital volt/ohm meter most common circuits can be checked against the service manual specifications. Usually in these amps the Zener Diode or Capacitors are the first to burn out along with cooling fans. That would be a good place to start.