I tore down and reset my computer in a new location. After reconnecting everything my gateway 900g monitor is not receiving a signal from the cpu. There is a signal coming from the computer, I don't know if it's the monitor or the cable.

hi there.
not sure if this link will help you find them but have a look.
Fuses located on gateway 900g lcd monitor Google Search

Hi,
try your system unit on a different computer, that's when your sure that its not your monitor.

Flickering could be a loose power connection but the hissing is indicative of a potential short. for your own safety, I'd get this to a TV type repairman asap.

There is no problem. The monitor is telling you that it's not receiving a signal. The reason there is no signal is because your computer is turned off, so it's telling the truth. :D
The monitor should go into idle mode on its own, so you won't see that message for very long. It's annoying, but doesn't cause any real problems. You can save even more energy by shutting off your monitor entirely after you shut down your computer. This will make the message go away and also save money on your electricity bill!

Try a different working out to make sure its not a wall outlet issue.if you do that and your still not getting power then the monitor is bad and would need to be replaced.

Hi,

If you have a add on display/graphic card in your CPU then shutdown the system, open the case and try to press the display card gently. Sometimes if the card get loose the display will not come.

If you don't have add on display then try to press the Memory gently after shutting down the PC and try the signal again.

If not resolve let me know whether any beep/sound is coming out of your CPU box?

Rate my answer please.

Thanks.

when u power up the computer press F* key then go to enable vga mode then set disaply resolutin incotrol panel to 800*600 or 1024 *768

I C Power PA192D Model 900G, Mfg Sep '05 19inch LCD
I purchased this monitor at Goodwill not working for $20. The 900G power light failed to come on and there was no video when turned on. To fix, first pull the 2 screws at the bottom of the back side of the monitor_ note this face is NOT removed by prying with a screwdriver like other monitors, it IS removed by sliding the face plate Upwards. Remove the LCD screws and remove the wires to the backlights carefully noting what goes where. Remove the metal cover and remove the 110volt power board. I found smoke trails under the cover and a swollen 470uf25v capacitor number C206, and replaced C110, C211 all were 470uf. Reassembled and found no change. Tore down again, used the ESR meter CapAnalyzer 88a and found C114 47uf25v to be 30% working, the volt ohm showed the cap to be good, that's why the ESR meter was needed. Replaced the 47uf25v C114, tested the large 100uf 450v capacitor, it tested only slightly under spec , could not find a 100uf at Radio Shack so did not replace it. So in this attempt the only thing changed was the 47uf C114. Reassembled and now works perfectly.

i'm not an expert at anything...x'cept maybe dumpster diving. God Bless

You can check the fuse on the monitor and replace it. In case the fuse is OK check the cable connector, display card on the motherboard.

Thanks

I'm writing this using a recently repaired Gateway 900g. You may be correct about the power supply, as that was the problem on this unit. There was absolutely no response with this unit. No blue LED, no dim display. Nothing.

WARNING: BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE AC LINE CORD. THE POWER SUPPLY HAS DANGEROUS 120 VAC PRESENT IF LEFT PLUGGED IN. If you don't know what you're doing, it's best not to attempt a repair!!!

Disassembly is a bit tricky, and there's a variety of different sized screws used; so keep track as you go. First you remove the front bezel (be careful as the two control boards on the lower right need to be disconnected). There are two screws (lower left and lower right) that secure the shell, the rest of the frame is just a snap fit around the perimeter.

Then remove the 6 screws that hold the LCD frame to the rear plastic shell. Careful here as well, as you must disconnect the back light cables AND the signal cable to separate the LCD from the Power Supply / Signal Processing board.

The Power Supply board mates to the Signal Processing board thru a 2x5 pin header. This contains convenient points to check the +12V and +5V supplies. In my case the +12V was OK, but the +5V was reading about +2.5V...not good! THIS IS REALLY DANGEROUS TO CHECK AS THE 120VAC IS ONLY AN INCH AWAY.

Here was the key symptom on my unit. Your's may not be the same. If I disconnect the Power Supply from the Signal Processing board, then the +12V and +5V read correctly (as well as the +16V that goes to the Backlight Inverter section).

However, once I connect the Signal Processing board, the +5V drops to +2.5V. However, the Signal Processing board seems to run correctly off of an external supply drawing about 300mA.

On closer inspection of the Power Supply board, I notice that 4 capacitors had buldging tops (domed). This indicated some stress. These were capacitors C205, C206 (470uF/25V) in the +16V section; and C210 (470uF/25V) and C209 (220uF/25V) both in the +5V section. I didn't have a Capacitance Meter handy, so it was simpler to just replace all four parts with similar values. (There's a lot of latitude in making these substitutions.) But be sure you have voltages a *least* greated than those needed; i.e. 16V or 5V. They used 25V to have plenty of headroom.

After replacing the 4 Capacitors, the Voltages and Blue LED responded normally. After reconnecting to the LCD assembly, all was well. Reverse the disassembly process, and you are ready to go.

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