Question about Kenmore Elite HE5t Washer

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My Kenmore Elite 110 42832 201 front loading washing machine won't start. It has power but when I hit the start button, I don't hear the clicking sound. Thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Leaking Kenmore elite he3 washing machine

removethe lower acess panel 3 screws across the bottom , run the cycle and watch to see where exctly the leak is coming from it should be quite apparent

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 front loading washer

Before you go crazy trying to solve the F2 code make sure the filter is clear. Disconnect the power cord, PLEASE. Remove the kick plate on the bottom front by removing the 3 screws below it. You will need a hex socket and extension or a torx screw driver. If there is water in the machine and it will not drain you will need a shop vac and some old towels to catch the water when you open the filter. Now, you will see the filter in front of you. Have the towels ready and vac turned on. Quickly unscrew the filter cap and stick the vac hose right in the filter to catch the water. Clean the filter cap. Did you find any socks, money or other debree ? If yes that may have been your problem. Put the filter back on and HAND tighten well. Test the machine. From now on empty all pockets before you do the laundry. You just saved yourself a big repair charge. Be proud of yourself.

Posted on Apr 17, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore Elite Front Load #45081

"F2" is a Long Drain error code, which indicates you are having a problem with either the drain pump or the drain hoses. You will need to check the drain pump and drain lines for obstructions. To do this, follow these steps:

  1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
  2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
  3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
  4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
  5. Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
  6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
  7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
  8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
  9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). “C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
  10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
  11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
  12. If the drain pump works normal and there’s no leaks detected, reinstall panel and tighten screws.
The "Suds" indication is a Suds Lock error. This occurs when you use too much detergent. It can also occur if you are having drain pump problems. I would bet you have a drain pump that is either clogged, or is failing.

If you check the pump and hoses and the problem still persists, replace the drain pump. The part can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number (located around the door opening) and look for item #10 under the "Pump and Motor" heading. If the part is not available you can also find it at the following websites:

repairclinic.com - item #1200164
pcappliancerepair.com - search by part #280187

I hope this helps you.

Posted on Apr 17, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite HE4T front load washing machine standing water

This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.

Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.

Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore Elite HE3t Giving a code F 06

"F06" is a Motor Speed error code. This is an indication that there is a problem with the Drive Motor, Tachometer, Motor Control Unit (MCU), Central Control Unit (CCU) and/or interconnecting wiring between the all these components. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r714929-f06_error_whirlpool_duet_kenmore_elite

I would begin by checking all the connector plugs between the CCU, MCU and Drive Motor to ensure none of them are loose or have corroded contacts.

Read through the link and follow the steps provided. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.

NOTE: The majority of the time this failure is attributed to a bad tachometer which is located on the MCU. If defective, the MCU must be replaced. There is a technical data sheet that comes with the washer. It is located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws located under bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet is not located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. Included are all the diagnostics and troubleshooting advice for your washer, including diagrams to show test points. HINT: For better access to the screws you can prop the two front feet of the washer up using a 2 x 4.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

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