Question about Saws

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: blade vibrating

Hi, put a new blade on and try it again

If you need more help please write again

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Posted on Nov 21, 2008

SOURCE: Blade Adjustment

if you mean the fence it is adjustable , if not the fence please clarify

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

SOURCE: Blade Alignment?

By splitter I take it you mean fence. If this is correct there could be a couple things that I would look for. UNPLUG saw and check the blade at 0 for being inline, make sure flanges are on correctly and finally what I would look at is the adjustable table bringing the fence toward the blade. Loosen lever and move it to the first slot where the guide would go align the front of fence and lock lever then check the back of the fence to make sure it is straight. If not you would have to adjust the back rail to align it. What I made to do this is 2 of the rails from the guide slide into the slot and on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that need to be loosened and the rear slide moved one way or the other after loosening the lever push the fence tight to whatever you use as a guide and snug the bolts move the fence away and then bring back rechecking alignment sometimes you might have to try a couple times but it should work. Tighten the bolts and again recheck If not let me know and I will find a manual for you to download

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

SOURCE: blade doesn't stay straight. bent spindle?

if the blade is mounted on the motor shaft? if it is, then you need to replace the motor bearing.

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

SOURCE: Blade Alignment?

ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence.

You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

if you are staining the edges and both sides it will work out as follows

Each flat side is roughly 5.28 square feet or 10.5 square feet total per board.

The edges add rougly another 2.4 square feet so rough answer would be 13 square feet per board.

Each flat side is roughly 5.28 square feet or 10.5 square feet total per board.

The edges add rougly another 2.4 square feet so rough answer would be 13 square feet per board.

Jul 10, 2016 | Office Equipment & Supplies

You would need the dimensions of the item that you are trying to calculate the distance on. For example, a 12 inch by 12 inch tile is one square foot. 18 of them would be 18 square feet. If you place them end-to-end you would have 18 linear feet. However, if you had a 6 inch by 12 inch tile, it would take 36 of them to get 18 square feet. If you lined the tiles up in a row on the 6 inch side, you would have 18 linear feet. If you lined them up on the 12 inch side, you would have 36 linear feet. Linear feet does not take into account width, only length. So trying to translate a 2-dimensional value into a 1-dimensional value is difficult if not impossible without more details.

See this answer as well....

How many linear feet are there per square foot

See this answer as well....

How many linear feet are there per square foot

Mar 07, 2016 | Office Equipment & Supplies

109 sq ft if you have no waste. I would get 120 sq ft.

Nov 18, 2015 | Building Materials

conversion tables on Google

Nov 03, 2015 | Office Equipment & Supplies

Multiply 21 inches by 14 inches by 10 inches to get 2940 cubic inches. There are 12 inches in a foot, so there are 12^3=1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot. Divide 2940 cubic inches by 1728 cubic inches per cubic foot to get about 1.7 cubic feet.

Alternatively, first convert all measurements to feet. 21 inches is 1 3/4 feet, 14 inches is 1 1/6 feet, 10 inches is 5/6 feet. Multiply them together to get 245/144 cubic feet, which again is about 1.7 cubic feet.

It's always nice when doing a problem two different ways gives the same answer.

Alternatively, first convert all measurements to feet. 21 inches is 1 3/4 feet, 14 inches is 1 1/6 feet, 10 inches is 5/6 feet. Multiply them together to get 245/144 cubic feet, which again is about 1.7 cubic feet.

It's always nice when doing a problem two different ways gives the same answer.

Jul 04, 2014 | Office Equipment & Supplies

Linear feet are a measure of length (no different from feet); square feet measure area. You cannot simply convert between measures of different kinds of quantities;the connection between them will be specific to a particular problem.A practical example in which this question can arise is in buying countertops for a kitchen. Some materials are sold by the square foot; others (basically those that are extruded, so they come in standard widths) are sold by the linear foot. In order to compare the two, you need to compute the area and wall length for the countertop you want.You can't convert between the two. All you have to do is to make the appropriate measurements so you can calculate the price of each item.The terms used in the lumber industry are a bit confusing.There are two terms that I think you might be mixing up.A LINEAR FOOT is simply the length of a board. If you want to know the area or volume of the board,you need additional information. For instance, 6 linear feet of 1-by-12 has an area of 6 square feet (12 inches = 1 foot, times 6 feet), and it's 1 inch thick, so the volume is 1/2 cubic foot (6 square feet times 1/12 foot). But 6 linear feet of a 1-by-6 board would have half the area and half the volume.A BOARD FOOT is equivalent to one square foot of a 1-inch-thick board. In other words, it is a square-foot-inch (ft^2-in), or 1/12 cubic foot.Linear feet are used for the pricing of a single size such as two-by-fours. Board feet are used for larger lumber that you are more likely to want to compare directly with different size boards .To sum up, neither a linear foot nor a board foot can be converted directly to square feet. A linear foot is a linear (length) measure, and a board foot is a volume measure. You need to know your particular board to do anything more, such as find the area.an example with an" L" shaped countertop will betwo rectangles are 24 by 80 inches and 24 by 36 inches. Thus the area is: 24 * 80 + 24 * 36 = 24 * (80 + 36) = 24 * 116= 2784 sq. in.To get it in square feet, divide by 144:

2784 / 144 = 19.33 sq. ft.The linear measure of this countertop would be 60 + 80 = 140 inches = 140/12 feet = 11.67 feet

2784 / 144 = 19.33 sq. ft.The linear measure of this countertop would be 60 + 80 = 140 inches = 140/12 feet = 11.67 feet

Apr 08, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

I assume you can find the adjusting screws, but here's how to measure if you have it dead-on:
First, confirm repeatability as follows----. Move the saw as if you were going to cut at miter, then move it back to zero. Now cut off the end of a 6 inch (or so) board. Then move the saw again, and move it back to zero. Cut off about 3/4 inch of the same board (make sure you haven't turned the board over). The 3/4 inch piece you have cut off might not be square, but the two cut edges of the 3/4 inch piece should be exactly parallel to each other. Find a way to confirm that. A micrometer or good calipers make this easy, but you may have to improvise - the key is that your check for parallel needs to be more precise than measuring it with eyeballs and a tape measure. Repeat this a couple of times. You may find that you have to be careful about resetting the saw each time so that you can get repeatability.
OK, now that you have a repeatable setting turn the board over and take another cut. Any deviation from 0 (or 90) will be doubled and the two cuts will not be parallel. Make your adjustments to the saw until you get two parallel cuts when you flip the board over. And one more thing! This method ASSUMES that the board you are cutting has parallel edges. If you have calipers this is easy to confirm.

Mar 04, 2011 | Dewalt 12" Beveling Sliding Compound Miter...

its a bad mount thats doing this,,,you can get over it easly by letting off the rear top mount of the scope (the mount near your eye) and pushing under your scope a strip of 35mm film this will lift the eye end of the scope giving you more range,,(elevation) only put 2 or 3 strips of film under the scope any more that this could bend the scope tube when you tighten it up

but a strip of film is about 25th of an inch and 1th will give you 1/4 of an inch at 100 yds ie:1 click! so you should easly get 10 inches at 100 yds or more with 3 strips of 35mm film under the scope even with bullet drop, the only other way to sort this out is to buy an adjusterbal mount witch is very pricy and 35mm film is cheaper, i do this all the time with my scopes

but a strip of film is about 25th of an inch and 1th will give you 1/4 of an inch at 100 yds ie:1 click! so you should easly get 10 inches at 100 yds or more with 3 strips of 35mm film under the scope even with bullet drop, the only other way to sort this out is to buy an adjusterbal mount witch is very pricy and 35mm film is cheaper, i do this all the time with my scopes

Nov 21, 2009 | Tasco Scope Guide Quickly Zeroing Rifle...

when i use my table saw, i use clamps on the fence, i dont rely on the one built in.

Feb 26, 2009 | Craftsman 1/4 x 72-5/8" Band Saw Blade, 6...

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