Question about Frigidaire Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
reset your breaker reprogram the clock try again what happend last time it was working self clean broiling etc
Posted on Dec 29, 2007
Hi and welcome to FixYa.com
First thing you want to check is the power supply (fuse or circuit breaker) to your oven.
Now, before you say "RescueTech it can't be the fuse because the indicators light up and I can set the controls!" read on-
Your range and oven elements are 220V units. This requires both legs of the 220 (L1 and L2) in order for them to heat up. Your indicator lamps and controls are 120V, therefore they will continue to work if one leg of the 220V feed is not present. It is very unlikely that all your switches and elements have failed at once. So start first at your fuse or breaker box. If you have cartridge fuses, you need an continuity tester or ohmmeter to check them. If you have breakers, there are two styles- One is a "single lever" style that controls both legs of the supply. The other style is a "double pole" breaker that is actually two separate breakers connected by a pin between them. Oftentimes one side will trip but not the other. You will actually be able to visually see this as the pin will appear crooked as one breaker is in the ON position and the other is in the TRIPPED position. Turn off the breaker (both sides will move together) and then reset it to the ON position. Now the pin should appear straight and both breakers should be in the ON position.
If the breaker seems to be fine, the next thing I would check is the terminal block where the range cord is connected to the appliance. As a journeyman technician, I often see where the installer failed to properly tighten the range cord's terminals when he/she installed the range cord. The appliance will function for awhile, sometimes for a few years even, but that connection gets HOT every time the range is used, and especially when the oven and all 4 burners are used together (Like on a HOLIDAY!) What will eventually happen is that the terminal will literally burn away and break the connection to one side of the 220. The result is anything "low voltage" on the appliance such as clock, lights, timers, indicators) will still work, however the elements will not heat up.
Before you start changing parts, check these things. I would be very curious to know how this one turns out. Just remember that the top burners and the oven have no connection to one another other than the supply voltage.
I hope this helps and have a happy and safe New Year from all of of here at FixYa!!
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
SOURCE: Oven won't heat.
Thanks for the tip. Had the same problem, everything seemed to work except for the heating elements. Removed the vent cover inside the door just below the control panel. Found the reset button and also found one of the large black power wiires had come loose from its connector. Turned off the power at the breaker box, checked for voltage with a meter and re-attached wire connector with insulated pliers. Oven works now. Lets call this failure "poor workmanship at Dacor".
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
i did a clean on my oven maytag model mgr5745ada. when i try to use the oven the preheat lite stays on for only a few seconds then i get either a f4 alarm or f1 alarm. what do i need?
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
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