Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Need to check and see if you are getting 220 volts to the element or if the element is showing resistance with an ohm meter. Any resistance means it is ok. If you are not getting voltage to the elements and resistance is ok then the control board is bad. Note: Always check outlet for proper voltage first! Never know when a breaker has gone bad. Should have 220 volts from line 1 to line 2 and 110 volts from line 1 or line 2 to ground.
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
To find service information for your Maytag Model go tothis link
When on this site, click on Maytag Historical Service Library.
Then click on Maytag Service Library.
Click on term and conditions
Click on Literatur by Model
Enter Modle number MER 6772
You will be able to print or download the service manual for your model
Your problem may be the bake relay on the clock or wiring.
Posted on Feb 09, 2008
Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though
Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Posted on May 23, 2008
I have a one year and 2 month old KitchenAid KEMC308KSS03 Wall oven/microwave combination.
After a self cleaning cycle the oven would not heat again. Eveything else works fine the microwave, controls, etc.
The problem is the thermal limiter switch that KitchenAid used. It is a one shot thermal limiter that opens if the back of the oven goes above 120degrees C and does not reset when it cools down.
The KitchenAid PN is 9759243 BUT don't replace it with the same part if you have this problem. KitchenAid want $84 for this silly thing and it a piece of junk. Buy a PN 317-1368-ND from DigiKey Inc. 1-800-344-4539. This is a 120 degree C thermal limit switch but it will RESET itself when the oven cools down so if it happens again you won't have to pull the oven. This part cost s $6.60 from DigiKey and is a much better part than the original one from KitchenAid.
The switch is on the back of the lower oven, there is a cover that comes off and you will see it screwed to the back with two wires connected to it with faston terminals. It is an easy permanent fix for this problem.
KitchenAid is ABSOLUTELY NO HELP with this (as ususal).
I hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 21, 2008
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