Question about Maytag Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Maytag Neptune
This is your complaint;
"I have a Maytag Neptune MDE4000AYW Dryer. The internal light is on but the control panel will not start the dryer. The breaker did not trip, i have full electricity to the dryer. My settings work but will not preform when i press the start button. Is this an internal electrical problem? Can i fix this myself?"
Thank you for providing a valid make and model number!
Tip: A volt-ohm meter is a valuable tool for diagnosing problems.
!. Sometimes a breaker will only trip 1 side of the 2 sided breaker. Reset the breaker by flipping it off then back on to remove any doubt!
Note: This is not 100% positive, as a breaker can fail on 1/2 the sides, so you will need a meter to test voltage, if you have ruled all else out.
2. Sometimes a thermal fuse in the dryer will open due to a venting issue. The fuse is mounted on the blower housing
or on the element tube. See links for part diagram: http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=516650&PPStack=1
See this link for diassembly procedures:
Inspect your vent thouroughly for obstructions. Also, inspect your lint filter if you use fabric sheets, by holding the filter flat under running water. If the water beads up and does not strain through the filter screen, replace the filter and avoid using fabric sheets.
3. The door switch may have failed, see link for part diagram.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46718, See item no.6.
4.Wiring: The wiring at the dryer terminal block may have burned up. See link for diagram:
5. Push to start switch failure. See link below:
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 16, 2008
SOURCE: maytag gas dryer
This is valid for a Maytag Neptune MDG3000AWW Gas Dryer (I am responding to a problem which was mis-identified as a MDG5500AW Gas Dryer)
NOTE: Motor problems begin intermittantly. They can be temporarilly fixed by blowing out the motor with compressed air. Eventually ALL motors fail. In my case, with six kids it took 10 years for our Maytag motor to fail. YMMV.
crosstip medium screwdriver
1/4 inch socket
5/15 inch socket
a. Remove the door and opposite side door plugs (crosstip screws)
b. Remove the front panel - this exposes sheet metal bolts (5/16 inch) some with crosstip on left and right of unit. Set panel aside (right side) WITHOUT unplugging wires
c. Unscrew all the exposed bolts.
d. Top bolts left and right secure the unpainted metal hooks which secures the top of dryer. Unscrew these bolts and wiggle the metal retainer hooks off. Lift top and support to create 6 inch gap in the front (top unit hinges in back and has electrical connections - do NOT disconnect wires)
e. Release belt from pulley by reaching left and under drum (this is out of sight)
f. gently lift out drum and belt and set aside
Observe the motor. Listen and smell. IF you see smoke from the motor, or IF you hear a "starting sound" but the motor itself doesn't spin, is very slow to start spinning, or makes racket, or it made a noise and then stopped... THEN your motor is burned out. Confirm by sniffing the motor. IF the motor smells burned, THEN your motor is burned out.
NOTE: If your motor is burned out it CANNOT be fixed because it is a "double wound motor." The motor must be replaced.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
You could set the dryer to manual dry and then no heat and see if the result is the same. If it runs then, you have a short in the heating system somewhere. If it still kicks out the breaker, you've got even worse troubles. Most likely an electronic board, and what ever caused it to go, like maybe still a heating system issue. I*d suggest calling a qualified service tech for this one. In the USA, you can find one at http://www.lge.com/us/support/repair/support-repair-provider-lookup.jsp
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
sounds like your heating element has opened up it was probably partially shorted to the case and this was causing your breaker arcing condition previously
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
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