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2 hobs on my electric cooker are not working


Fixing Electric Stove Burners that Don't Heat Up Properly ...

? 2:34
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfqaPcha__o

Jul 2, 2012 - Uploaded by SamuraiRepairman
Fixing Electric Stove Burners that Don't Heat Up Properly ... Coil Surface Element Test - Electric Stove Repair - Duration: 2:04. by... Temporary Repair For Electric Plug In Range Stove Surface Element Burner Not Working ...

Electric Range Stove Repair: How To Repair Burner ...

? 6:52
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndQU7RtqfRw

Jan 31, 2012 - Uploaded by applianceassistant
How to Fix Electric Stove Burner Elements That Won't Turn On Or Won't Turn Off. ... More Range and Stove Troubleshooting, Repair Help, And ... Fixing Electric Stove Burners that Don't Heat Up Properly - Duration: 2:34. by ...


Oct 26, 2015 | Ovens

1 Answer

Why won't my gas grill stay lit?


Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system.

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

Jul 04, 2014 | Zanussi Ovens

1 Answer

What could cause this ? We have a Super Capacity 465, ceramic top oven. Everything appears to work properly except, when turned OFF, the surface heating indicator light for the left back burner remains on...



after pics see articles





Stove will not turn off CHECK


Temperature Control Thermostat


If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

Oven Control Board


The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!





Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!





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Apr 29, 2014 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

My GE profile electric range (model PS905SPSS) has a power boil burner with dual burner elements (one inner circle and one large outer circle). The outer circle one is glowing and heating but the inner...


Disconnect power to range. If you have an ohm meter, you can check the burner coils for continuity from the wires at the switch. If not, open oven door, remove screws holding top. Lift up top and remove screws holding the set of burners in question and visually inspect the inner coil for a break in the burner coil.

Nov 27, 2010 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

All 4 burners do not heat up very well or not in red color


I would CAREFULLY investigate that the electrical power is connected correctely. MAYBE you only have 120 instead of 240 on the one that doesn't heat well... OR maybe the element is defective.

If you aren't adept at this you might get a service person to check it out as the voltages are lethal.

The elements should get to a dull red color if correct.

May 29, 2010 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

3 Answers

Whirlpool Oven Model GS440LEMQ bake eventually turns off


As per the problem you submitted ,According to the manufacturer service pointer cause of the intermittent bake burner operation is improper air flow to the burner.

The correction is to replace the bake burner with the new modified burner and igniter assembly.

- The part number for the burner & igniter assembly is AP3598752
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3598752 --------- to get more help please click on this link directly http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Dec 31, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Bottom burner for maytag gas oven will not light. The broiler will turn on and heat, but not the bottom burner.


will have to replace the oven ignitor part #120000035 / this will correct burner problem / mm

Dec 08, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

9" burner is not working


First, examine the 9 inch ring that is not heating. Look for any rough spots, which would indicate that the 9 inch coil is burnt out. (which would require burner replacement) If you find none, next check the wires where they attach to the burner to see if one might have burned off. That would be the easiest and least expensive repair if you find that. Failing the first two steps, the next would be the 6,9,12 switch.

Oct 12, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Burner heats to high even when set on low


Are you talking about the cook-top part of this unit or the interior of the oven? If it's the top part, your infinite switch is out. If it's the interior, it's one of the elememts. If you will give us a call as soon as you get a chance, we'll make sure and get the correct part out to you right away to get this repaired. We look forward to working with you and getting your oven fixed BEFORE Thanksgiving. 972-859-0929

Oct 04, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Large burner won't shut off


This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.

This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!

Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!

If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.

Feb 09, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

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