Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have a leak underneath and it is switching the anti flood switch on. Tip the dish washer back at a 45 deg angle, you will probably get water teak out the back, stand it back upright and try it. although it will probably work you will need to look underneath and find where the leak is coming from, my guess is its the wash pump and will cost around 100 pound for an engineer to repair.
Posted on Dec 03, 2007
SOURCE: Bosch SHU43C
My SHU43C is just over 3 years old. I had a similar problem recently. First, there were a few floods. Then, the Bosch only drained non-stop. Even when I used the Cancel Drain buttons the drain pump would run without stopping. When I tried to run one of the cleaning cycles, no water entered the machine. Corrective: I removed the base plate, and saw that the red plastic floatation device was in the up position. Using a flashlight and a wooden spoon, I lightly toggled the red float stem down. I pushed regular clean cycle and kept toggling with the red float stem until the rinse water started to enter the machine (turning the red stem seems to also actuate a step in the program). Now the dishwasher runs normally. Voila!
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
If the clean light flashes 7 times, pauses, then repeats...
When the dishwasher doesn't sense a water temperature increase, it will stop working and lock the functions (clean light flashes 7 times, all buttons are non responsive). It does this as a safety in case the element is broken and feeding electrical current into the water.
To resolve this you will have to reset the console. Do this by closing the door and press these buttons in sequence...
-high temp wash
-high temp wash
...all the lights will turn on briefly and the machine will start a diagnostic cycle. You can press cancel or let the diagnostic cyle finish (1-2 minutes).
You should now be able to run the dishwasher as normal.
If the issue returns, you could have a problem with the heating circuit (ie. element, thermostat or wiring). It rarely happens but it could also be the door switch not engaging properly when the door is closed (slightly bend the door latch down making sure it doesn't hit the door when you close it).
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
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Oct 16, 2016 | Siemens Dishwashers
May 21, 2014 | Hotpoint Washing Machines
The filter is probably blocked.
It is inside the base of the machine.
Take out the filter and clean it and also clean out the filter well as that can also hold quite a bit of debris.
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