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Not if ignition module . Electronic componets when heated up will act just like that . When it dies check spark, fuel pressure right away an find out what quit . Test don't guess . Videos on youtube on testing GM ignition system. Which engine does yours have ? Had option of two different ones . 3.4 an 3.8L . Ignition module or cranhshaft position sensor could be the cause .
Three dual tower ignition coils are mounted to the ICM, and are serviced individually. The ICM performs the following functions:
• The ICM supplies a power and low reference circuit to the CMP and CKP sensors.
• The ICM determines the correct direction of the crankshaft rotation, and cuts spark and fuel delivery to prevent damage from backfiring if reverse rotation is detected.
• The ICM determines the correct coil triggering sequence, based on how many 18 X ON-OFF pulses occur during a sync pulse. This coil sequencing occurs at start-up, and is remembered by the ICM. After the engine is running, the ICM will continue to trigger the coils without the CKP sync pulse.
• The ICM inputs 18 X and 3 X reference signals to the PCM.
• The 3 X reference signal is also known as the low resolution engine speed signal. This signal is generated by the ICM using an internal divide-by-six circuit. This circuit divides the 18 X signal pulses by 6. This divider circuit will not begin operation without a sync pulse present at start-up, and without 18 X and 3 X reference signals no fuel injection will occur.
this generation of gm vehicles is easy to troubleshoot. the engine needs 3 things to run: compression, fuel, and spark. since you mention fire, i assume you have no spark.
disconnect any random spark plug wire and connect the end to a hei spark tester. crank engine and observe for spark. if you have no spark, disconnect the center terminal of the distributor cap and use the hei tester in the same manner. spark means cap and rotor bad or bad plug wireset. no spark means make more checks.
check for battery voltage and good ground on distributor. check for open or shorted ignition module or ignition coil windings. if power and ground is present and ignition coil tests ok, check for ignition pulses at coil primary. if you have no ignition pulses feeding the coil, change the distributor.
with that generation of vehicle, the ignition system will operate without help from the computer. don't even troubleshoot the guts of the distributor, if you change the cap, rotor, and anything else, it will be the same price as a remanufactured distributor, and might not fix the problem. if you troubleshoot a low volrage related issue (no pulses, shorted or open circuit, unstable timing, etc), change the whole thing.
The vehicle is a 97, what is make and model? I didn't understand that part?
The ignition coil needs voltage and pulsing ground. Usually the ignition module pulses the coil ground on and off. Different makes and models, may not call it an ignition module, to me, it's the same thing.
There could be other issues?
There are three items that are connected together needed to create spark on your 1997 Honda 4-wheeler, regardless of which model it is.
Before we go through a checklist of these three important parts, look for a black wire with a white stripe that runs to the ignition switch and kill button from the CDI box. Disconnect this wire before it gets to the ignition switch and kill button, then check for spark. The most likely cause is a broken kill switch on the handlebar, or shorted ignition switch. Such a condition grounds this wire and kills the spark.
If this test did not restore the spark, continue reading...
Here is what is required to create a spark.
First, the alternator has one coil which generates a high voltage--about 125 Volts AC for the CDI ignitor box.
Second, there is a pulse voltage generated once every revolution of the engine that goes to the CDI box. This pulse causes the CDI to dump its stored energy from the 125 volt line into the primary of the ignition coil.
Third, If the two connections of the wire that runs from the CDI to the Coil are BOTH SHINY clean, the ignition coil will generate a spark.
If any one of these 3 don't happen, the spark will go away. Of these three, item 3 -- one or two tarnished and/or dirty connectors -- is the most likely cause. Just an added resistance of 0.3 Ohms or more in the CDI to Coil connections will cause the ignition to fail. No other wires have to be this clean.
Did you replace the IGNITION coil or the "PULSING coil"? There are two different types on that engine. The ignition coil makes the high-voltage spark, the pulsing coil is a sensor that tells the ignition control module when to tell the ignition coil to make that spark. The pulsing coil is pretty inexpensive on eBay.
If you change both the ignition coil and the pulsing coil and the problem still persists, you may need to replace the ignition control module.
Unfortunately, they don't make these things simple any more, or easy to troubleshoot.
When the ignition switch is turned on the pcm turns on the fuel pump by energizing the fuel pump relay. The PCM keeps the fuel pump on as long as the engine is cranking over or running.It does this by recieving pulses from the ignition module. If there are no referance pulses the PCM will turn the fuel pump relay off in 2 seconds with the ingnition on.
Most models also include a secondary control path through the oil presure switch witch will turn the fuel pump on after it detects oil presure.cranking time will be longer if the fuel pump doesn't recieve current until oil presure switch contact is closed.