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Replaced battery and unit still does not ignite

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Not enough information. is battery installed correct? are all the module spades attached or grounded? is gas flowing so the bbq can ignite with a manual lighter? are the electrodes coated with grease so they will not spark? Are the electrodes 1/8-1/4 inch at the tip so they are able to arc?

Posted on Nov 07, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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3. Disconnect the three leads from the igniter unit.
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My electronic ignition on gas Wolf cooktop(30 inch) isn't working on any of the burners. Why?


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Is the ignition battery or mains electric? If it's battery,check the battery isn't flat. If it isn't it will be the ignition unit.

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IGNITION FAILURE ON 280 ZX (82)


  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with the following system checks.
    1. Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON. Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair as necessary
    2. Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK; replace it if the reading is far from this range.
  2. If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition OFF.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
0900c152800716f1.jpgFig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 models 0900c152800716f3.jpgFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
  1. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
    1. Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
    2. Turn the ignition ON.
    3. Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
    4. Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
    1. If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
  1. If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
    1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
    4. Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
    5. Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
    1. Remove the IC unit.
  1. Measure the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is bad and must be replaced.

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2 Answers

Truck will not start


The vehicle will have a solid state ignition system. Distributor,control unit, pulse generator and ignition coil. The distributor is basically the same as in a conventional (Kettering System) car ignition. The difference is that the capacitor and breaker points are not used. Instead these are replaced by a pulse generator, consisting of a reluctor which rotates with the distributor shaft, a stator and a pick-up-coil mounted on the distributor base plate. There is no contact between the moving parts. The #1 suspect would be the control unit, which is a discrete non-adjustable electronic switching device which determines the period wduring which current will flow in the primary circuit. (i.e. 'The Dwell Angle") The control unit ALSO controls and interrupts the primary circuit when triggered by pulses from the oulse generator. (This induces current to flow in the secondary circuit) Take note that the ignition coil is a special design and should NOT be replaced with a coil from a conventional car ignition system. You should check continuity between all the wiring connections linking the coil, distributor and the control unit. Make sure that earthing points are effective and clean. Check that there is a proper connection between the distributor + and the control unit and esspecially the connections on the coil. Sometimes the vehicle ignition switck can be faulty but it is rare that it is so. The risk is if you do not know what you are doing, you could damage the solid state circuitry in the control unit. Check also the distributor cap, the ignition coil HT lead, see if you can get a spark whilst someone cranks the engine over. The testing procedure is too long to describe here. But email imsuze56@gmail.com for detailed information if you need it.

Jun 12, 2008 | 2001 Chevrolet S-10

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