Question about Dryers
I have a temp fix. Make sure you use copper wire. Take the heating element out. Then look for the place that burned into.. Twist you copper wire tight around each side to make a complete connections. Make sure the copper wire is thick enough too. I had done this several times to buy me time to save up some money to buy a new element. Hope this helps
Posted on Oct 18, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
There are several things that can cause a dryer not to heat properly. First and foremost, a dryer needs proper air flow in order to work properly. Routine cleaning of the dryer vent hose should be done periodically. I recommend once per season (4 times per year), depending on use. If you haven't cleaned the dryer vent any time recently, start here first. It could be that you have a simple clog somewhere.
Now...if you've already thought of that, you could actually have more going on INSIDE the dryer. If your dryer is equipped with a removable front kick panel, remove it by inserting a putty knife along the top seam (about 2 inches in front each side) to release the retaining clips. The panel should pull open, exposing the heating element and blower housing. On some models the heat components can be accessed by removing the back of the dryer.
Stand back and watch the heating element with the dryer running. If it is glowing and intermittently shutting off, this is NORMAL. You probably have a clog some where INSIDE the dryer. You will need to unplug the dryer and remove the air blower housing to see if it is clogged with lint. I have found these blowers so clogged that the fan gets jammed with lint and snaps off at the shaft. If the fan doesn't spin, there is no air flow and you clothes will not dry. In this case, the blower fan will have to be replaced.
If the heating element is NOT glowing, and you have verified that the dryer is not clogged, you may have a failure with any of the following components:
HEATING ELEMENT - located inside a heat box. Unplug dryer and remove connector leads from element. Check resistance of the heating element. It should be about 10 ohms. If it is OPEN, the heating element is bad.
THERMAL CUT-OUT - located on the heater box housing. Has two leads running to it. Designed to protect the heating element in an overheat condition. Check resistance to ensure it is reading something close to a SHORT (0 ohms). If it is OPEN, it must be replaced. It is highly recommended to replace the HI-LIMIT THERMOSTAT (which is also located on the heater box, closer to the heating element connectors). The two components work in conjunction to regulate the heating element temperature. If the TCO fails it is usually for a reason. It could be a simple matter of general house cleaning, or it could be a failure of the hi limit thermostat.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know what you find. Post back with any comments and/or questions.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
Any time you perform work inside a dryer, lint can get kicked around and settle on components. It is common to have a slight burning smell for a day or so. However, your dryer getting too hot to the touch concerns me. Improper air flow is the number one cause of dryer overheating problems. You may have cleaned the lint out of the interior of your dryer, but did you check the air blower and vent duct lines? In addition, was the heating elements actually bad? Or, did you assume it was bad, because your dryer wasn't drying properly? The following link can explain:
Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. I would recommend you remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry another load. If the dryer dries more efficiently and the top panel does not get scorching hot to the touch, then you have a vent clog somewhere EXTERNAL to the dryer. If the dryer air flow exiting the dryer is weak and the dryer still gets too hot to the touch, you have a clog INSIDE the dryer.
Follow these steps, first and see what you find. If you verify your ventilation is clear and not kinked or clogged anywhere, then you might assume you have a component malfunction. I would hope to try to save you from purchasing parts you may not need. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
PS Make sure you are using semi-rigid (metal type) vent ducting. It is crush resistant, heat resistant, does not kink easily, and resists rodents. It is what most manufacturers recommend. If you haven't replaced the dryer vent in a while, this may be a good time.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
Usually when an electric dryer overheats it's because of a defective cycling thermostat or a clogged vent system. Clean any lint from the internal and external ductwork, and/or replace the cycling thermostat
Posted on May 18, 2008
it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
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