Question about Refrigerators
Look for scews around cover if no scews the some covers you squeeze an pull apart
Posted on Oct 19, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: freezer stopped working
Solomonau, it's hard to tell without being there exactly what is going on. I do know however,that in April of 2005 Samsung came out with a bullitin regarding the cap tube. It states that it has been inserted into the dryer incorrectly and can cause no cool situations. This is part of the sealed system which should be covered for 5 years. What you are describing sounds like a partial restriction, which could be taking place in that dryer and cap tube. If you were to post your model number, I would be able to tell if yours was included in this bullitin. You can then contact Samsung and inquire about this service bullitin, Catriver..post back.
Posted on Sep 20, 2006
SOURCE: SAMSUNG RS21DCNS
speaking from memory: remove the middle translucent section held by one screw at top and clips. you will then see the additional screws you need to undo
Posted on May 07, 2007
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Behind the white plastic section at the back of your freezer (4-6 screws to remove) there is a drain hole at the bottom. This will be frozen and prevent water from defrost from draining away - we have exactly the same problem. defrost the freezer and ensure this drain is no -longer frozen. I used hairdryer and warm water to clear. You may have a secondary problem of defrost cycle going wrong - the most common replaced part is R1098 or something like that a defrost sensor which is easy to replace by removing the top rear plastic section - 3-4 screws to remove and it simply pulls out as it is lightly clipped in. I was worried about breaking it but it came out with a bit of a tug. The defrost heating element is another part which can pack in. I'd replace the other part first and see how it goes.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
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