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Samsung Instructions I moved my samsung fridge model: RL40SBSW and the inside light stopped working. I also do not know how to remove the light cover. Tx

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  • 53 Answers

Look for scews around cover if no scews the some covers you squeeze an pull apart

Posted on Oct 19, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
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SOURCE: freezer stopped working

Solomonau, it's hard to tell without being there exactly what is going on. I do know however,that in April of 2005 Samsung came out with a bullitin regarding the cap tube. It states that it has been inserted into the dryer incorrectly and can cause no cool situations. This is part of the sealed system which should be covered for 5 years. What you are describing sounds like a partial restriction, which could be taking place in that dryer and cap tube. If you were to post your model number, I would be able to tell if yours was included in this bullitin. You can then contact Samsung and inquire about this service bullitin, Catriver..post back.

Posted on Sep 20, 2006

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: SAMSUNG RS21DCNS

speaking from memory: remove the middle translucent section held by one screw at top and clips. you will then see the additional screws you need to undo

Posted on May 07, 2007

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: SAMSUNG RS20CCMS

Defrost by turning off for 48 hours and the unit will work ok (for a while)
Its a design fault common to many Samsung Side By Sides

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

projdoc
  • 2236 Answers

SOURCE: samsung model rs2577sl. fridge side not working

5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: samsung fridge model srs535nw service manual

Behind the white plastic section at the back of your freezer (4-6 screws to remove) there is a drain hole at the bottom. This will be frozen and prevent water from defrost from draining away - we have exactly the same problem. defrost the freezer and ensure this drain is no -longer frozen. I used hairdryer and warm water to clear. You may have a secondary problem of defrost cycle going wrong - the most common replaced part is R1098 or something like that a defrost sensor which is easy to replace by removing the top rear plastic section - 3-4 screws to remove and it simply pulls out as it is lightly clipped in. I was worried about breaking it but it came out with a bit of a tug. The defrost heating element is another part which can pack in. I'd replace the other part first and see how it goes.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

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My Samsung refrigerator won't stop beeping and light inside is out


OK we know it's a Samsung Refrigerator probably 1 of about 50 models that Samsung sells. The model number is on a plate inside the refrigerator. If you don't have a user manual use the model number at searspartsdirect.com to view or
download the user manual. If sears has ever sold this model it will be there! Use the troubleshooting section to find out why it's beeping. It may be as simple as needing to clean the door seals so they don't leak air. Remove the light bulb cover if there is one and replace the light bulb with one of the same kind.

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We have a Samsung fridge freezer we have lost the manual , the nunber is RL38SBSW 11.3CF. The problem we have is that the inside light has stopped working and i cannot work out how to get cover off to...


There are 2 tabs that you press from the fat tabs to loosen it. The tabs are about 3/8" wide and you just squeee the tab from the tabbed area with your thumb. Once the large part tabs is released, you pivot the cover up about about 40 degrees and remove the light cover.

The bulb is an E14 base "screw in" type bulb.

The lamp cover is 2.99 Euros.....
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=2238373&query=Samsung%20RL38SBSW&model=RL38SBSW&path=67607,111066:67610

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Most likely the thermostat in the fridge, especially if it read 5 degrees until you reset it. Possibly the compressor in the fridge side as this fridge has twin cooling, or the circulating fan in the back of the fridge is frozen, which is a common problem as well.
Easiest things to try is to see if the fan is frozen and check if the fridge cooling is actually working. Turn off the fridge, remove the shelves, remove the 4 screws that hold in the bottom cover and the 2 screws that hold the water tank in. Cover should then come out a few inches. Reach behind and unplug the 2 plugs and pull out the cover. If the cover doesnt come out easily it may be glued to the back of the fridge by ice. Leave for a couple of hours and gently prize it off. Check for ice around the fan and that the fan spins freely. You could try sitting the cover inside the fridge, plug it in turn it back on for a few minutes (be careful) and then open the door and quickly look / listen to see if the fan is still spinning (it stops when you open the door). Leave the fridge off for a while until the ice disappears off the coils. Turn back on for half an hour. The coils should be icy again. Anything else call Samsung. If the deal in your country is the same as mine the fridge has a 2 year warranty but in the fine print the sealed compressor unit has five years on parts only. You could get the unit replaced for labour costs only. Check your warranty card.

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1 Answer

We have a samsung side by side fridge freezer dispenser model and the fridge side has stopped working but the freezer does appear to still be functioning. The fridge temp control keeps restting itself to...


Hi. If you remove the light unit ond the lower casing which has four screws two of which are under the small vent covers that unclip. The light unit by the way has two screws under the difuser and that unclips. Mark the top before removeing with tape to give ease of replacement. After removing the top light unit inside the fridge and unclipping the two electrical terminals it can be removed. The same is true for the lower unit. Be aware the lower unit will be frozen in place. Ease it away to break the ice seal and remove the electrical connections. Use a hairdrier on full powar to fefrost the cooler unit at the rear of the fridge. Use the same method to defrost the removed fan unit. Pay attention to the fan drain. It may need the insulation trimming to make it drain and work again when re installed. Cut it away with a craft knife. When it is dry and defrosted re install in using the reverse procedure. Be aware it will frost up again and need you to do the whole thing again as soon as the fan gives signs of fouling on ice. You will hear it catch. Regards. Paul.

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This is caused by the ice building up in at the back - the fan catches the ice and eventually will stop. With the fan malfunctioning the temperature will rise and the light then flashes. Keep searching the web, and you will find instructions how to remove the back and de-ice it. I had exactly the same problem 2 months ago. Make sure that it is fully de-iced, including the tray at the bottom. Ours has worked OK since!

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1 Answer

Freezer stopped working


Solomonau, it's hard to tell without being there exactly what is going on. I do know however,that in April of 2005 Samsung came out with a bullitin regarding the cap tube. It states that it has been inserted into the dryer incorrectly and can cause no cool situations. This is part of the sealed system which should be covered for 5 years. What you are describing sounds like a partial restriction, which could be taking place in that dryer and cap tube. If you were to post your model number, I would be able to tell if yours was included in this bullitin. You can then contact Samsung and inquire about this service bullitin, Catriver..post back.

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