Question about Kenmore Electric Smooth Top Stove

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I have a Kenmore model 790.95322304 glass top stove. The eyes on tops work but the clock and oven do not. What could be wrong?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

reg501
  • 413 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore range model 790.90152300 the

The electronic oven controller has failed. The cost is around $160.00.

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

  • 360 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore glass top range left front large burner out

check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.

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Posted on Jan 29, 2009

smartr10U
  • 1305 Answers

SOURCE: Can I replace the glass stove top on my Kenmore Range????

Yes! check at repairclinic.com you can find parts for your appliance. be sure to have your model number handy.

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore 665-9580 error code ''E1 F2''

What happened I am getting the same error LCD Message.. TX... Steve in Florida

Posted on Feb 14, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore gas range, oven touchpad and clock are out

It appears your ERC/CLOCK has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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Moved into this house. Has no manual on Kenmore glass top stove, on how to use self cleaning oven. Looking for manual or directions on how to use it. Only have model # 790.96011400 and serial # VF50635079


Hi,
Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go into the self clean mode....check out this tip...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

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Large pop noise tonight while using oven, then problems where buzzer would come on by itself & lock oven. Oven does not work now, nor do the buttons make the usual noise. The stove top burners work...


Sounds like you overloaded a capacitor on the clock assembly. Before you replace the clock, you should check the voltage to your stove to be sure it's a steady 110 to 125 volts. But yes, it sounds like your combo clock brain got zapped.

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I own a Kenmore stove model #639539J2. The glass


yes. open the oven door to the first "click". it kind of stops about a quarter of the way open. most ovens you grab both sides of the oven door and pull up. some models have a couple of screws you have to take out before you can remove the oven door. then lay it down with the insie of the door facing up and take out all the screws holding the oven door together. some may be on the sides or the top and bottom of the door. when apart, clean first with easy off, then clean several times with windex till streaks are gone. assemble door in reverse and put back on stove.

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Kenmore simmer select board problem The SS button tripped my house breaker. I haven't used SS since (button is now 'off') so not sure it is working - pretty sure it is not. Otherwise, all of the stovetop elements seem to work fine. The 'Element on' light works (on when any burner is on, off when they are all off). However, none of the 'hot surface' lights work for any of the burners now. Is this just a SS board component that needs replacing? Or the whole board? I do have meters and experience to fix if someone can link me to a schematic or steps to test. Whatever happened to the SS board appears to have prevented the 'hot element' lights from working. EDIT: the model info is 790.96223409 **************************************** EDIT2: I found a schem for this; as the SS board indicator light shares neutral wiring with the other lights, is there a simple fix to disconnect one of the connections to this part of the board wiring, so that those lights will work again while I'm waiting for a new board? Pretty sure I have a bad relay on this board and will need to swap the whole board out, but I'd like to be able to check that those other indicator lights and circuits are ok so when I do get a new board, everything will work normally. ************************************** EDIT3: I rechecked the stove around lunch today; it does look like my 'hot burner' lights now work (maybe a relay was partly stuck open or shut on the board?); so, I may only need a new SimmerSelect board. I'll check for anything that looks burnt when I have the time to pull the oven out and open up the back. I did get the time to turn on each burner to 5 or 6, make sure they all got hot, and then turned down and they do all seem to regulate ok. If my 'hot burner' lights stop working again/become intermittent, I'll drop another update here. It does appear these boards are a common problem - are the relays not designed for 'hot switching' on these, and the burner switch should be completely 'off' when tripping the SS switch? That would seem to be a design flaw, if so.

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