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When the burner arced out it probably also ruined the switch. Most switches on a standard electric range have 5 wires. 2 wires to the burner. 2 hot wires from power and a smaller wire which connects to the indicator light marked P. It is easy to test the switch Unplug the stove. Turn the suspect switch on wide open. Check for continuity between the 2 terminals going out to the burner marked H1 and H2 If you cannot get a reading then the switch has failed. Note: when replacing the switch usually on most stove the replacement will not be or look like the original HOWEVER it will still have L1 and L2 H1 and H2 and P but the terminals are not always in the same order. If you fail to correctly connect the new switch you will fry 2 switches when both get turned on. Ouch!
I have a Kenmore glass stove, not sure what the model number is I don't have it with me right now. Yesterday, the timer started to beep and F1 started to flash in the display. The stove top is working, but the oven does not. The only way I can get the timer to stop beeping is to unplug the stove.
Any suggestions as to what is going on with this stove. It's only 4 years old.
Your problem is not the igniter itself, but the burner switch that controls the igniter. All the igniters get their power from one spark module that is mounted somewhere in back of the oven. That's why you are able to get all the igniters to spark with only one burner control turned on. This is normal. That is also why you are able to light the burner in question buy turning on another burner. The spark is being provided by a switch that is working. To answer your question: the igniter is removable, but I don't think it's necessary. Cleaning them generally doesn't make them work better. I would check the wiring from the spark module to the burner switch and/or replace the switch. I hope this helps.