Question about Cub Cadet LTX1045 2009 and After Deck Belt OCC75404219
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i had the same thing happen
found that the on/off switch had come unplugged from the wire harness just below the switch
had to attach the wires to something underneath so the weight did not pull the wires down and taped the two switches together to prevent it from pulling apart
it needs some kind of clip to hold them together
hope that this works for you
Posted on May 24, 2009
sounds like one of three possible problems ....one - there are safety switches that prevent engagement of the blades,,,,,two - the electric switch which engages the electric clutch blade pulley is bad....or three - the electric clutch blade pulley assembly is bad.....first.....make sure all ur connections are tight to the safety switches and electric clutchblade pulley.....then, if your able to read and follow a wiring diagram, get the wiring diagram for your tractor and a 12 volt probe light (with probe point end) with a ground lead....first, ground the clamp end to the frame and probe at the electric pulley clutch plug to see if power is getting there...if not...follow the wiring diagram to the next switch location the power lead comes from....if one side of the swtich shows power and the other side doesn't with the switch in the correct run position....then the switch or connection is bad.....if it probes okay...go to the next switch....follow this logic from both sides of the from the electric pulley blade clutch plug until you isolate the switch or plug problem....if everythin tested is good....then it's the electric clutch pulley assembly that need replacing.....hope this helps.....
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
I hope this will help you...under the side panels on each side of the mower, there are "reverse lockout safety switches", they are supposed to stop the blades when both handles are pulled back. If one or both of the switches are out, the deck will not engage. Also, under the right side panel (when sitting on seat) there should be 3 relay switches, the one closest to the motor controls the PTO., if this is out, the PTO will not engage.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
First, check the level of the hydraulic fluid (usually the dipstick is right inside the fill cap, and you just raise the seat to access it). If it's low, fill 'er up with the right fluid.
If that's OK, test if the lack of 'pull' affects the left wheel in both forward and reverse -- try going up a hill forward, and backing up it in reverse. If it affects both directions, maybe you will be lucky -- the problem could be that the bypass for the left hydraulic motor has opened somehow. (The bypass is used to let you push the mower by hand in case of an engine failure, etc.) So look for a fat-headed bolt sticking out of the left hydraulic motor. Check that it's tight -- rotate it just like you would tighten a bolt, clockwise. If it wasn't tight, that may be the problem; just tighten it and try the mower.
If this doesn't resolve it, you probably have a problem in the hydraulic valves, hoses, or motor, and a trip to the dealer is needed. Probably won't be cheap, sorry my friend. Good luck, and please rate if this was helpful, thanks!
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
Do you hear a "clunk" when you engage the PTO switch, but the blades don't turn? If so, then check the mower deck belt - is it properly threaded, and tensioned by the idler pulley? If there's absolutely no sound when you engage the PTO switch, the problem is likely electrical (even though everything looks OK). The PTO switch, PTO clutch, and the reverse lockout switches (near the bottom of the fwd/reverse control arms) should be checked. I don't think there's a separate fuse for the PTO on your mower, but there may be a relay. Even though these parts and connections look OK, they can fail internally. Best bet is to get a multitester and check each of them with the ohmmeter function.
Posted on Jul 03, 2010
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