Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger ( small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line ) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. A misaligned control settings, make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze - store them in a different spot. Doors not closing properly making the fridge run too long is something else to check for.
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Posted on Jun 03, 2009
You have a solenoid switch which switches the dispenser back
and forth from crushed to cube. It could be stuck or not working or the parts
connecting it could be disconnected or broken. You will have to observe to see
if any parts are moving and if any noise is coming from the solenoid.
With your model number I can find a diagram which may help.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 16, 2017 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Aug 10, 2014 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Aug 10, 2014 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Jul 14, 2014 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator
Feb 09, 2014 | Frigidaire FPHB2899LF
Replacement parts can be
purchased at any of the following web sites:
Before going to buy any parts
Go through this troubleshooting help links.
This is list of refrigerator problems,
which is normally faced in refrigerator.
You can go through the details, by clicking the link below:---
Refrigerator is not cooling properly?
Both refrigerator and freezer not cooling properly in refrigerator?
The ice maker not working: ---
Compressor not running on refrigerator?
Water dispenser not working on refrigerator?
These will help.
Dec 23, 2012 | Refrigerators
Fill ice maker with tap water and allow the water to
freeze. If when the ice maker cycles and drops ice into ice bin it chooses not
to refill with water at end of the cycle. That would point to the dual water
control valve. If ice maker does nothing when filled with tap water that will
indicate a defective ice maker. The model number you listed does not appear to
be correct. Look around the fresh food section door frame and see what you
have. This could be the ice maker or the dual water control valve causing this
problem. Thanks Sea Breeze
Nov 16, 2012 | GE 20.3 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...
Jun 22, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Apr 08, 2010 | Frigidaire FRT18IS6CW Top Freezer...
Nov 30, 2007 | Maytag PTB2154G Top Freezer Refrigerator
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