Question about GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven
Posted by Anonymous on
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Usually, the F1 means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called
clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code
cannot be canceled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC),
touch pad, or both.
I recommend a service call for this repair.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
HI, if this error code cannot be canceled, this will confirm a touch pad issue. the membrane is damaged and, this will require you to replace the ERC.
Replacing the Electronic oven control will fix this issue.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
SOURCE: Problem Code F2
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Hello- First off, do not use 'self clean', or as most Techs call it: "Self- Destruct". This 'feature' cheerfully sold by the salesman destroys more oven and range components than any other failure. Now- the racks had a thin layer of grease on them when the oven tried to turn stuff inside the oven to ash. The grease is now a hard rubbery coating on the surface of the rack. To solve this problem, you must determine by observation, where the rack touches the sides of the oven. These contact areas need to be cleaned thoroughly with scotchbrite and a small portion of oven cleaner. Make sure you use gloves. Sliding rack in and out to 'mark' these small spots works pretty good. Once cleaned and wiped down, they should work fine. I recommend cleaning by removing as much 'stuff' by scraping and wiping down with moist cloth. Turn on to 450deg for 30 min. Much safer, less costly. Please acknowledge this posted solution if helpful. Have more info if needed- Thanks -Ed
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 17, 2016 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...
Apr 27, 2014 | GE Ovens
Feb 01, 2013 | GE Ovens
Feb 28, 2011 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...
Jun 02, 2009 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...
Apr 20, 2009 | GE Monogram® ZEK958 Electric Double...
Feb 25, 2009 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...
Aug 31, 2008 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...
May 16, 2014 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven
33 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: