Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
Michael, you probably have a bad thermistor. Based on your model number there are 3 thermistors in your unit. Since yoy already have done so much I would just replace all of yhem. The thermistors only cost about $8 to $10 and are easy to replace. Hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 24, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
well check to see if door seal is split if it is get new one!! need to see photo of the frozon over dispenser- found before that when ice not bein used alot the odd time you will have to take out the ice in the bucket crack it up and put back in try this???
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
This is a fairly easy problem to solve. First thing you will need to do is defrost the ice on the inside back panel of the freezer. Then remove the back inside freezer panel. You will need to remove your freezer shelves to do this. Once the panel is removed you will need to defrost the coils and surrounding area. Once defrosted you will see your defrost heather on the bottom of the coil and a defrost thermostat on the top of the coil. The defrost thermostat is about the size of a quarter and about 3/4 inch thick. It will be mounted on the coil line. If you have a multi tester you will be able to check continuity through the heater by unpluging it. The defrost thermostat is a bit more tricky to check. It will not read continuity once it is warmer than 50 degrees. The defrost thermostat is a fairly inexpensive part so if your heater is good you may want to just replace the defrost thermostat and see if the problem goes away. The other possibility would be your control board. It is located on the back of the refrigerator and has a metal plate covering it, with sever 1/4 inch screws. This board causes most failures on your model refrigerator. Also a point to remember. This board has had several new upgrades from the one originally installed on your refrigerator. So make sure if you get a new one that you get the listed number I have given you. The older ones are cheaper but they are also not updated and will not function properly on your refrigerator. The following parts listed are the possible parts you will need. Please let me know if you need one and I can ship it to you in about 1-2 days. I do not charge shipping and I give free advise. Thanks and good luck with your frost problem. you can reach us at.
defrost thermostat. #WR50X10068 $21.57
defrost heater #WR51X10042 $56.50
control board #WR55X10656 $185.50
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
This model does not have a defrost timer. It has a motherboard. You must jump out the plug to the main board to test the defrost circuit. In order to do this take the cover off of the main board, find the three wire connector on the base of the main board, connecter is normally blue in color. On the board itself it will identify termials as line, defrost, and compressor. To test you must create a jumper wire.Install the jumper in the plug terminals identified as line and defrost.This will turn the defrost heater on. If the heater does not come on, look for a defective heater or a defrost thermostat(mounted on the top of the evaporator). If the heater does come on replace the thermister(located on top of evap, white in color and has two white wires part#WR55x10025)
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! and thanks for using Fixya. Mike
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
There will be no simple answer or solution for the cause
of this happening but knowing that your model has a motherboard that is prone
to problems like these symptoms yours has does at the least point to many possible
causes. Other things to consider are the possibility that a condenser or
evaporator fan motor that is slowly going bad will cause this symptom and even
cause the problems on the motherboard low voltage side to damage a new
replacement motherboard should the board be replaced without knowing that there
is also a problem with a fan motor. If it were me I would consider the cost of
replacing the refrigerator with a model refrigerator without all of the
electronic bells and whistles. GE thought they had a special product that would
cut cost when going electronic as they did with the Artica/Profile models but
what happened was many people are left with the cost of keeping these models
going out of their pocket money. I will be glad to assist you in repair but
first please weigh in replacing your model with something simple that has no
electronic gadgets that in the long run cost much more to keep up. Thanks Sea
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