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Ruud 5 Ton UAKA Condensor fan running but compressor won't start. Internal thermal overload cycle.

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  • 156 Answers

Have you checked the wiring going to the compressor to make
sure it is not melted? Next, are you
able to put your hand on the top of the compressor? Check to see if it is hot or cold. You might have a bad run capacitor so let the
unit turn on, wait about 5 minutes, turn the unit off, and then tell me if the compressor
is hot or cold to the touch. Next, are
you comfortable with a meter?

Posted on Oct 18, 2013

Testimonial: "No burnt wires. Contactor looks good. 208 volts getting to compressor. Ohmed from grnd. to all compressor terms... No short to grnd. Approx .4-.8 ohms across run/start/com. Didn't check temp of comp but I'm sure It will get hot if internal overload is kicking without a full start. It seems this could point to run cap or locked compressor."

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 147 Answers

SOURCE: Compressor will not start.

If the unit is low on freon it will short cycle but a compressor internal overload will cause it to. Lets hope its the freon. Has it been frezzing up lately. Low freon is the cause most of the time. Make sure your filters are clean and both fans are running. Hi head can cause this to. (fans not running) How old is this unit. Maybe the coils need to be cleaned. Sound like this unit may need a check up and a good cleaning.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

james3751
  • 614 Answers

SOURCE: I need electrical hook-up diagram for RUUD

You can find one on the web at Rheem or Ruud .com Go to tch support. Down load tech manuals. Rusty

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: Have a Ruud Achiever Model number UAKA-037JAZ that

try spinning by hand when the unit make the buzzing sound. to see if the capacitor is bad. If the fan runs replace the cap. If not motor probably is bad. See if it spins freely. this is a good starting place. need to check if the buzzing is the contactor and there is no power to the condensor. The contactor will buzz even though the main breaker is off or tripped

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Bad compressor or bad capacitor??

Look at the capacitor. if it is leaky or swollen it is most likely bad

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you for your response."

  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: RUUD uaka-036jaz not cooling, outside fan does not

Check your disconnect or breaker that is located close to the outside unit. Next you need to check the contactor in the outside unit. Set the thermostat to make the air come on then check the contactor. It should be pulled in closing the contacts. If it isn't the problem could be the contactor or thermostat. Next check the voltage on the load side with it pulled in. If that's good then check the capacitor. If it looks swollen, it's bad. You can also use a multimeter with the capacitor check function to do this. Let me know what you find.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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1 Answer

What ton is a ruud uaka-060jaz


This is a 5 ton unit. There is 12,000 btu's per ton, so you would multiply 12,000 x 5 = 60,000 btu's.

May 10, 2014 | Ruud UAKA060 Air Conditioner

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it is a 5 ton by your model number.

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I have had the fridge for 5 years without using icemaker. we just connected it and in a week the tray for ice broke. and the water to fill ice maker doesnt stop. it just keeps comming. it flooded out the...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. You let me hanging out to dry here as you did not include a model number so I can not help you with the ice maker. Speaking in generic terms the hot chassis is due to blocked condensor coils in the bottom rear / back of the unit or the condensor fan has stopped working. My bet is after 5 years it is probably a case of a very dirty condensor coil AND fan.

The clicking noises you heard most likely was the compressor thermal overload cycling. On the side of the compressor there is a PTC relay and thermal overload that start the compresor. If it was cycling and stopped the thermal overload may have failed. Again without a model number I can not help you with parts information.

The PTC and thermal overload come off together on most units and they are located under thep plastic cover on the side of the compressor.
Once removed you will see 3 terminals on the compressor labeled
C = Common
S = Start winding
R = Run winding

Use a meter and read C, S and R to the case of the compressor. No grounds / shorts allowed
Read C to S = Start winding resistance
Read C to R = Run winding resistance
It should also read R to S

There is also a run capacitor usually very near the compressor. Find it... pull off one terminal and probe the terminals. Watch for a jump in resistance then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the meter leads and look for the same reading a jump in resistance (R x 10,000 scale) and drifts to infinity. (Good result)

On the compressor LABEL there is an LRA value that is usually 13.7 amps to 21.3 amps. This is the locked rotor amperage that you measure with an amp meter. If your seeing amps equal to or greater than the LRA valuse the compressor is locked and will probably have to be replaced.

As part of troubleshooting most of us tech change the PTC relay, Thermal overload and the run capacitor all at the same time and you really can not troubleshoot without them so it is a necessary expense. If the capacitor passed the jump test 2 paragraphs up you do not have to change it but the PTC Relay and Thermal overload change are a must. Your really can not even perform an LRA amperage test without knowing the PTC relay and Thermal overload are good.

I am pretty sure your going to find a massive amount of lint in the back of the unit. Clean it out...
Swap out the PTC and KliXon thermal overload on after doing the C, R, S, test to the case of the compressor. If any of them read to the case of the compressor the compresor is internally shorted. You can sometimes get by with C reading to the case. But R or S reading a ground to the case = shorted compressor and troubleshooing is complete.

One other possibility is that due to all the cycling depending upon model of the unit, the main control board has failed.

Hopefully this make sense to you and your able to determine the problem.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Jul 14, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My refrigerator freezer does not cool below 70 degrees. I just relace the start relay and now the compressor runs but the condensor fan won't work unless i give it a little spin.


Lubricate the condensor fan with a parifin based oil like Union 76 turbine oil or "Zoom Spout" oiler. These fans are notorious for the bearings drying up on them.

Being careful.... touch the compressor copper lines. One should be very warm almost Hot to the touch.
Also with the unit unplugged..... note that there is a coolant drier with a small capillary tube coming out of one end. Tap the side of this by holding a hammer handle (wood) against it and hit it on the side with a screw driver handle.

Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is also running when the compressor is on. Anytime the compressor is running BOTH fans must be running. If you can not get the condensor fan up to full speed you will note that the chassis around the door seal area will be quite warm almost hot to the touch and the unit will not be cooling properly. Just for troubleshooting.... direct a fan at the condensor coils and see if the freezer compartment gets cold and that the chassis around the door seals is just warm.

Note about compressors in general.... if you unplug a unit.. it must settle / stabilize for 15 - 20 minutes so that the compressor can restart. Any power off periods less than 15 mins will result in the compressor cycling via the thermal overload every 4 minutes or so... and it does not run for more than 40 seconds when the overload kicks off the PTC relay power.

If you never feel the copper line off of the side of the compressor get hot then the unit has lost coolant.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

May 15, 2011 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Outside fan shuts down on its own but the compressor continues to run ruud model uaka-037jaz


Hi, sounds as though you are loosing the condenser fan motor, shutting off on internal overload until it cools enough to start again. Double check the model number as it should be a 036 and not a 037 which is the tonnage in btus of the unit. 036 would be a 3 ton unit, 12,000 btus of cooling per ton. Anyway you have a dual run capacitor which helps the compressor and fan to start. If the compressor runs and starts ok, the run cap is more than likely good. You can do this, when you see the fan shut down, remove the fan guard on top and carefully feel the body of the motor. It will be very hot!! This is normally the #1 problem as it gets hotter, these fan motors along with the compressor take on a lot of heat which does the damage. There is not a lot that you can do, except have it checked and replaced. I don't know the year of the condenser, but I have seen them run for a year and up to 20 years. Its job is to help the compressor remove heat through the coil wrapped around your unit. Most of today's motor have sealed bearings on them so they don't need oil. You can check yours by looking at each end for a plug where you would oil the bearings. If you do have them you can try and oil the bearings to see if this will do the trick, as they sell oiler's at any hardware store with a telescopic spout to do this. If you try changing this motor out yourself, you could bend the blade/prop and it would be out of balance and the new motor would shake the whole unit before you lost it. Also, kill power to the unit and take your garden hose and give your coil a good washing as this keeps the internal head pressure down and may help. It will soon quit completely, and the compressor will shut off due to its internal overload, or the unit will shut off on its high head overload cut-out. It will cycle like this until the motor is replaced. If you are up to trying to do this, you may be able to get a motor at a appliance parts house, but I would recommend getting a tech out to do it, as you will get some part warranty. I would like to save you $$$ so try looking for bearing caps, and wash your coil before you call. Also, get several estimates, I charge around $160.00 total and to install it. I wish you the best on this but I have to be honest. Please keep me posted on the outcome and when you are rating me.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor.

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3 Answers

Condensor fan went out on 1999 ruud heat pump.


Did you try pushing in the contactor to see if the unit will even run?

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1 Answer

I HAVE A RUUD MODEL RSNM 2 TON UNIT WITH R-410A REFRIGERANT. WHEN THE TSTAT CALLS FOR COOLING, THE CONDENSOR FAN STARTS AND THE COMPRESSOR STARTS AND THEN ALMOST IMMEDIATLEY SHUTS DOWN. IT THEN SHORT...


I t sounds as if the run capacitor is goinmg bad. You have a start and run capacitor in the unit the start side could be good however the run side is losing voltage and wont let the compressor run at its peak causing a thermal overload shutting down the unit for safety.

Would suggest the rplacement of the capacitor first then go from there

Dave

Jan 15, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Compressor will not start.


sounds like the compressor is shorted out, or froze up. the 1 second buzz you hear is the compressors internal overload protector kickin in and shutting the comp. down. its a self resetting circuit breaker. for the most part, the compressor is out and needs replaced.

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I am trying to get an electrical schematic of my RUUD 3.5 Ton condensing unit UAKA-042JAZ. The one that is attached to the inside of the unit's cover is not readable. Where can I get another drawing to...


thers 2 sides of power in the entire unit besides the 24 volt control wires! what are you trying to make run? theres a fan and compressor, both operated off the same contactor!!

Aug 22, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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Compressor will not start.


Usually short cycling means that High side pressure is getting to high (due to not working condenser fan, or dirty condenser coil), or low side pressure is getting too low (might have low level of freon or restriction in sealed system). low side would drop dramatically if indoor blower is not running, so if air is not circulating thru evaporator coil, coil will freeze up and low side would be much lower then normal. Here is video how I found issue with package AC not coming on. Thermostat call for cool, but condenser would not come on, indoor blower runs ok.

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